Here you can linger over a newspaper or magazine for hours, watching the street life, which is now dominated by young parents pushing baby carriages, stopping every few hundred feet to show their infants off to friends.

The best things in Oslo, however, are free. The wintertime walks, the chance to deep-breathe clear, cold, crystalline air right in the city center, with the fresh snow neatly packed and the building spires looking sharp against the bright-blue sunny sky. Few cities are as lovely as Oslo, with its fairy-tale buildings in the gracious old city square, which is dominated by the Parliament and the Royal Palace, where eager visitors can often catch a glimpse of the king and queen. The skating rink in front of the Parliament is free, as well, although the DJs handling the sound system favor jarring transitions, moving from Bob Dylan to Britney Spears without warning. The remarkable Vigelandsparken (Vigeland Sculpture Park), with more than 200 works spread throughout its expansive grounds, does not charge for entry.

In summer, the focus moves from the ski slopes and trails to the harbor, which is perfectly integrated into the city center that grew up around it. Just as Miami focuses on its beaches, Oslo in summer focuses on its fjords and the islands that lie just a few minutes offshore, easily visited via commuter ferries that cost next to nothing. The waters are cool and clear and filled with small boats, day sailors, kayaks, and practically anything else that floats. Clothing is optional - a larger-than-life mural in city hall celebrates the tradition of nude summer sunbathing (on specially designated beaches) that has long been part of life here. The overall summer combination is hard to beat: a midnight sun that never seems to set, blue waters, green forests, pretty rolling hills, all close to a charming city with excellent restaurants and clubs.