Quinine, the bitter root also found in tonic water, has been a component of Lillet since the original batch was concocted by the Lillet brothers back in 1887. Maybe the presence of fever-relieving quinine explains why Lillet was popular, not only on the steamy boulevards of Paris, but also in French colonial outposts, where malaria was a constant threat.

The firm is now owned by famed vintner Bruno Borie, whose family also owns Chateau Ducru Beaucaillou, and the product is still produced in 19th-century cellars just south of Bordeaux. The classic way to serve Lillet is very chilled but without ice, garnished with a twist of orange peel. It also makes a fab martini.

BUYER'S GUIDE

Martini & Rossi Rosso, $8
Vivacious and Bittersweet
Sip it on the rocks with a splash of club soda.

Vya Extra Dry, $16
Crips and Astrigent
Great with a twist of lemon or an olive.

Lillet Blond, $13
Lush and Sophisticated
Serve very chilled, straight up with a twist of orange