DINNER
"Quinzi & Gabrielli is still the best, most fabulous seafood restaurant. The best fish you could ever imagine and the best oysters. It's in the old part of the city, very close to the Pantheon. You can't get any better than that. Another great fish restaurant, almost on the level of Quinzi, is Alberto Ciarla. In Rome, the restaurants don't change like they do in New York or L.A. About 10 yards from Quinzi is La Rosetta. That's also fish. Then, we have the old showbiz places like Dal Bolognese on Piazza del Popolo. When I was doing The Tempest, John Cassavetes brought everyone there to eat."

NIGHTLIFE
"Of course, everybody just walks around. Go to the Piazza Navona, which has a medieval circus atmos-phere with performers all year round. I remember going there to people-watch on those nice, balmy nights. The Fontana dei Fiumi is the fabulous fountain in the middle of the piazza, where all the kids run around late at night. If you're with kids and not dieting, you can get great gelati, ice cream in all sorts of flavors. Tre Scalini on the Piazza Navona is famous for the tartufo chocolate dessert. Somehow, you can eat and eat in Italy and you never gain weight. Piazza Santa Maria della Pace, Square of the Peace, is a La Dolce Vita kind of place where everybody goes. It's full of paparazzi and bars like Bar della Pace. The Trattoria Pizzeria della Pace is also there, a great hangout. Try the pizza bianca."

SATURDAY

ESPRESSO
"There's nothing like getting up in the morning and having one of those incredible espressos. In Rome, there isn't such a thing as what you think of as breakfast in America. You get a croissant and cappuccino at the local bar. But you can sit and people-watch at the Raphaël, a really old, tiny hotel, which is lovely. Also, the Fonta delle Tartarughe, Turtle Fountain, is a beautiful place to begin your day."