America’s Blue Highways
by Ken McAlpine
On my last day, I push off again from Lovers Key. I plan on
paddling for Mound Key, one of the centers of Calusa culture, but I
get hopelessly lost. Over the next five hours, I see mangrove
islands that all look the same, several bottlenose dolphins, and
hidden backwaters so quiet that I can hear the sudden scatterings
of tiny fish - they sound like a handful of tossed pebbles.
When I pull my kayak up onto a 10-yard scrim of shell and sand and
sit alone in the middle of Estero Bay, here is what the wind
whispers: It is the moments between the markers that matter. Even
the Calusa, who no doubt knew where they were paddling, could not
see to the end of the trail.
Great Calusa Blueway Paddling
Primer
What to take on the water:
Sunscreen, sunglasses, a floppy hat, a personal flotation device
(Florida law requires a Coast Guard-approved, readily accessible
PFD), insect repellent, a compass, a map, binoculars, a cell phone,
a whistle, water shoes (to protect your feet from sharp shells),
and plenty of drinking water.
Places to stay along the trail:
Tropic Star of Pine Island Jug Creek Cottages, Pine Island
(239-283-0015); Bokeelia Tarpon Inn Bed & Breakfast, Pine
Island (www.tarponinn.com, 239-283-8961); and Lovers Key Resort,
Fort Myers Beach (www.loverskey.com, 239-765-1040).
Camping is currently permitted at Cayo
Costa Island, Picnic Island, and Koreshan State Historic Site (on
the Estero River). Tip: During the off season - mid-January through
April - many hotels offer discounts of up to 60 percent.
Places to eat:
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