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Summer's Great White
by
Anthony Dias BlueWhether it's called Pinot Gris or Pinot
Grigio, we think the "gray grape" stands a good chance of
chipping away at Chardonay's monopoly as summer's wine of
choice.
Take a look over your shoulder, Chardonnay. There's a new phenom
moving up behind you - Pinot Gris. This white varietal is actually
a genetic mutation of Pinot Noir. On the vine, the berries range
from rusty pink to blue-gray in color, giving the grape its
moniker, and the leaves are identical to Pinot Noir.
Pinot Gris is still found occasionally in vineyards in Burgundy and
one particular strain of the grape even winds up in some red wines
from that region. But it's as a white wine that the "gray Pinot"
earned its varsity letter.
This member of the Pinot family is typically more beefy and
full-bodied than Chardonnay, almost chewy, in fact. But in its best
expressions it has a fabulous, racy acidity that points more toward
the tart, Sauvignon Blanc end of the spectrum. Best of both worlds?
Today's wine drinkers seem to think so.
Alsace and
Italy (where it's known as Pinot Grigio) work wonders
with this grape, but New World producers, including those in
Australia, are making exemplary versions, too. Check out these
three bottles. We think they'll make great additions to your summer
wine list.
REDBANK 2001 PINOT GRIS "SUNDAY MORNING" KING
VALLEY ($16)
I don't normally judge a wine by its label, but I have to admit
that I was first impressed with this bottle because of the
inventive packaging. The whole Redbank lineup sports clever
graphics and catchy proprietary names. This release from the
winery's Goldmine series features drawings depicting Australian
gold rush history. "Sunday Morning" refers to the day the miners
and their families dressed
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