Restaurant Vau | Hedwig and the Angry Inch | Paris | Berlin

For Better Or Wurst

by Mark Seal


If you managed to avoid the curry dogs, where did you go for a nice meal?
I went to one of the best restaurants I have ever been to in my life: Restaurant Vau. It's like one of those meals that people have in Paris that they talk about their whole life, where it's all the different little courses­ of a half partridge with grapefruit and so on, and each thing is served with the perfect wine to go with it. We decided to do the tasting thing, so we were there for hours. It is in the central part of Berlin. Vau is beautiful, with almost a Viennese touch but still really contemporary design on the inside with this wood paneling. You wouldn't have found that in Germany 10 years ago. It was the best meal I've had in 100 years. I also went to a place I really liked called Lubitsch, like the director. It's in Charlottenburg. It's German food with a Euro slant to it. Almost like a German version of a French brasserie.

Did you revisit any of the ­restaurants your mother
took you to?

When I was a kid, my mom took me to beer gardens. But, you know, beer gardens are only good in the summertime. I found a great lunchy coffee bar called Einstein Café that was really good and had music.

Did you have time to check out any of the clubs?
I'm not a nightlife person, but a couple of nights we went looking for fun. We couldn't find any because we were always off so late. We'd get off work at three in the morning, and we'd go driving around the city, you know, driving around, saying "What about this place, and what about that place?" Nobody would be in there. I was thinking, Maybe I'll see Hedwig. Did you ever see that movie, Hedwig and the Angry Inch? I was thinking about Hedwig. I was thinking that I wanted to go see the place where it is like the movie, with lots of people wearing berets and smoking cigarettes and then, like, drag queens. You know, I was looking for that. I think it does exist. But I went home and went to bed, or watched DVDs. We did find two good places,­ Maria am Ostbahnhof and Sage Club.


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