WHERE TO EAT: Apeadeiro (011-351-214-832-731) is known for
its grilled fish, but we hear it has nice boeuf bourguignon and
tasty sardines, too. And its prices are quite reasonable for the
area. Adega means wine cellar, and
Adega Do GonCalves
(011-351-214-831-519) is one of the most popular, thanks in part to
the fact that the kitchen serves such plentiful portions.
SETÚBAL
REASON TO VISIT: Setúbal's laid-back atmos-phere and excellent
seafood restaurants are what make it such an attractive half-hour
getaway for Lisbonites. Water birds, which can be observed wading
in the nearby
Parque Natural da Arrabida and Reserva Natural do
Estuário, draw bird-watchers from near and far.
The Castelo
de São Filipe, a 16th-century fort now an exclusive pousada
(state-run inn), is a great place to stay for exploring the
reserves and the Igreja de Jesus, a striking Gothic church.
WHERE TO STAY: A historic castle built in the 17th century,
Pousada de São Filipe (011-351-265-550-070) sits on a hill
overlooking the city. In town, the 24 rooms at the small but
comfortable
Residencial Setubalenese (011-351-265-525-790)
have been recently refurbished.
WHERE TO EAT: Nab one of the outside tables at
Restaurante Escondidinho (011-351-265-523-408) and watch the
surrounding hustle and bustle. Also nice are the meias doses, or
half-portions.
SINTRA
REASON TO VISIT: For 500 years, Sintra was the summer resort
of
Portugal's kings, many of whom built extravagant castles in the
wooded hillsides. One of them,
Palácio da Pena, dominates
the skyline. High above the city, its bright orange and yellow
domes are easily visible from the center of town. Less 1840s
royalty and more 1960s Disneyland, this architectural wonder is a
must-see.