American Way Cover - 9/1/2002

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Rudi Lechner | Cafe Europe | Karl Ratzsch | New York

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by John Mariani

BEST OF THE WURSTS

Sausages are hot, hot, hot, from Cajun boudin to Spanish chorizo. But it’s the Germans who have the knack with the knackwurst. Chicago’s Berghoff (17 W. Adams St.; 312-427-3170; www.berghoff.com), which opened in 1898 and is still in the same family, has always offered great platters of wursts — knackwurst, bratwurst — to be slathered with pungent brown mustard, a side of German fried potatoes, and a stein of the restaurant’s own brewed beer. —

Other fine German eateries where you can sate a thirst for the wurst:
HOUSTON: Rudi Lechner’s, 2503 S. Gessner, (713) 782-1180
INDIANAPOLIS: Cafe Europe, 4709 N. Shadeland Ave., (317) 547-4474
LOUISVILLE: Gasthaus, 4812 Brownsboro Ctr., (502) 899-7177
MILWAUKEE: Karl Ratzsch’s, 320 E. Mason St., (414) 276-2720
MINNEAPOLIS: Gasthof Zur Gemütlichkeit, 2300 University Ave. N.E., (612) 781-3860
NEW YORK: Hallo Berlin, 626 Tenth Ave., (212) 977-1944
SANTA MONICA: Knoll’s Black Forest Inn, 2454 Wilshire Blvd.,
(310) 395-2212


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