Noted food critic Alan Richman once wrote,
"The grim state of airport dining is incomprehensible." Granted,
some of it leaves a bad taste in your mouth, but as road warriors -
grabbing meals in terminals from Midland to Miami - you've surely
uncovered some of the diamonds in the rough. If you haven't, check
out our short lists of inspired airport eateries. -
J.B.
Local Flavor
A welcome trend in airport dining is to treat travelers
to a taste of regional specialties. Also, a growing number of
outposts of neighborhood dining institutions can be found at
airports. For example, Perry's, a
San Francisco staple for over 35
years, is introducing its classic American cuisine to a whole new
set of fans at its year-old location in San Francisco
International's Terminal 1. At Seattle-Tacoma, there's an entire
food court, called Pacific Marketplace, which focuses on regional
fare and features offshoots of homegrown favorites like Ivar's Fish
Bar (celebrated for its clam chowder) and Alki Bakery Express
(which draws raves for its cinnamon rolls).
The short list
Albuquerque: Gardunos
Chile Packing Company and Cantina
Austin: Salt Lick and Matt's Famous El
Rancho
Boston: Legal Sea Foods Express
Chicago: Harry Caray's
Dallas-Fort Worth: Reata Grill
Memphis: Jim Neely's Interstate Bar-B-Que
Miami: Café Versailles
New Orleans: Café Beignet
Phoenix: Flo's Shanghai Café
San Francisco: Perry's, Lori's Diner, and
San Francisco Soup Company
Seattle-Tacoma: Pacific Marketplace and 13
Coins
Under the Toque
It's not only what's cooking at airports these
days but also who's cooking, as some of the world's top chefs take
their talents to the concourse. One of the first to do this was
Wolfgang Puck, whose small kiosk at the
Columbus airport was so
successful, it spawned a full-fledged restaurant.
The short list
Boston: Ozone-Bos (Todd
English served as a consultant) and Jasper White's Summer Shack
Express
Columbus: Wolfgang Puck Express
Orange County: Oasis Grill & Sky Lounge
(conceived by David Wilhelm)
San Francisco: Yankee Pier (Bradley Ogden
is part owner)
Seattle-Tacoma: Dish D'Lish (from Food TV's
Kathy Casey)
Lean and Mean
With society's emphasis on health these days,
it's only natural that airport eateries would take heed.
Minneapolis-St. Paul is among those now offering calorie-conscious
and heart-healthy options. At its French Meadow Bakery & Cafe
in Concourse F, everything is all natural, from the organic greens
to the yeast-free breads. Granted, an entire guilt-free menu may be
rare, but at least one or two wholesome choices are showing up on
more and more menus in airport dining establishments.
The short list
Chicago: Eat a Leaf Salad Creations
Miami: Casa Bacardi and Sushi-to-Go
Minneapolis–St. Paul: Lake Line Pub and French Meadow Bakery & Cafe
Newark: Maui Tacos and GreenLeaf’s Grille
San Francisco: Raving Wraps, Il Fornaio Caffe Del Mondo, North Beach Trattoria, and Ebisu