Sartaj Singh | Ganesh Gaitonde | Mumbai | law-abiding people

By The Book

by Tracy Staton
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Seafood, though, is a Mumbai specialty (the city is, after all, on the sea). Chandra likes Trishna, an upscale seafood spot downtown: "It's quite busy and full of people, so it's an interesting place to visit."

But he also likes Mahesh Lunch Home and Apoorva, less expensive seafood places in the same area. They're both known for their fresh, local, in-season fish. It's the kind of food the star of Sacred Games, police inspector Sartaj Singh, would eat. "You can get dinner for 200 rupees, exactly what Singh could afford," Chandra says. "He'd like this stuff."

In the book, Singh delves into the life of a Mumbai godfather, Ganesh Gaitonde, who, in alternating chapters, tells his own story. Gaitonde is a violent, ruthless crime boss, but he's also a confused, loving, likable man. In one of the most touching scenes in the book, Gaitonde has his boys drive him to a hilltop in Film City so he can sit and stare at the sea and worry about a promise he's made to the daughter of one of his associates. They drive past a film set's castle, town square, and fishing dock. Without connections, the average tourist can't get into Film City quite as easily, but regular, law-abiding people can visit with advance permission. "Sometimes the films need foreign extras," Chandra says, recounting the story of a movie scout who approached a friend from the United States. "They needed her for a bar scene," he says. "So she shot for a couple of days, for fun."

Some of the small-time crooks Singh encounters in Sacred Games might show up at Chor Bazaar, which translates as "thieves' bazaar." Once true to the name - it was the place where stolen goods found new owners - it's now a big flea market, with a huge range of individual shops. "Some are like a hole in the wall; some have taken a hole in the wall and poshed it up and put in air-conditioning to attract tourists," Chandra says. "You can get antiques and old stuff, although you have to be careful: People are expert at faking things, so make sure you know what you're looking at."

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ISSUE: May 15, 2007
American Way Cover - 5/15/2007