Scotland | Queen | Samuel Johnson | Ale | Mother | Porter
Kilty Pleasures
by
Anthony Dias Blue Scotland not only produces the world's
best malt whiskies, but it has a fine tradition of delicious
rich, dark beers, too. Guess they figured they owed us for
inventing bagpipes.
In spite of the noise, it's a unique and fascinating place. Where
else can nature fans spot throwbacks to the Pleistocene, like the
shy, retiring Loch Ness monster and the colorfully plumed Queen
Mother? Where else can duffers triple bogey while 9-ironing
souvenir divots from the world's most hallowed golf links?
When the Scots aren't busy showing off their brute strength by
throwing telephone poles around, they like to cozy up with a
buckskin-bound copy of Ivanhoe and a nice plate of haggis. Haggis,
for those of you who are still culinarily innocent, is a
traditional Scottish dish of organ meats and oatmeal stewed in a
sheep's stomach. It's one of those preparations that should really
only be described on a need-to-know basis, but not all Scottish
cuisine is quite this bizarre.
Even the irascible gourmand
Samuel Johnson claimed that if any
epicure could travel instantly in search of sensual gratification,
"wherever he had supped he would breakfast in Scotland." And today
the country has several Michelin-starred restaurants. Here are two
strong Scottish ales that will fit the bill of fare, be it haggis
or something more contemporary. For contrast, I've also thrown in
one American porter with a Scottish accent, made on the wild heaths
of downtown
Portland, Oregon.
Traquair House Ale ($4 per bottle)
In a shady glen on the River Tweed, about 30 miles south of
Edinburgh, is a romantic pile of stone architecture known as
Traquair House. Originally a castle owned by the kings of Scotland
(the labels on the back of the bottles show the famous bear gates
leading into the property), it dates back to the 10th century and
is claimed to be the oldest inhabited house in Scotland. Beer has a
long history at Traquair, too. We know that the household was
producing ale when
Mary, Queen of Scots, visited Traquair in
1566.
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