Shanghai | Huang Yao | John Curran | China | Army
Off The Beaten Path
by
Mark SealTell us about the French Concession.
In the colonial era, the various countries that had been
permitted in the city divided up Shanghai; essentially it had
been a treaty port.
China, having long been closed to Western
trade until it was eventually opened up, gave trading
concessions to certain nations.
Shanghai was one of the ports
those nations were allowed to trade in. Literally, the map of
the city was carved up by these different national
concessions. There was the British Settlement and the French
Concession, and many of those old neighborhoods have
essentially been redeveloped. But the area that they call the
French Concession still has tree-lined streets and old
houses, and it has been preserved a little more.
Okay, on to the countryside, which was so
amazingly filmed in The Painted Veil. Guangxi is really one
of those special, special places. The big city is Guilin, and the
well-known sort of tourist area is called Yangshuo, but we were
pretty far off that beaten track. We were in a very tiny town, an
ancient town called Huang Yao. It was so far from anywhere. It was
built over 500 years ago and is still completely intact as a Ming
dynasty-era town. All the things that you see in the parts of the
film showing us walking in town - the exterior of the convent, you
know, the alleys where we were chased, and the river where we
floated and got off and on the boats - almost all of that was in
Huang Yao. It is really an amazing experience to be in a place
where you can point the camera in any direction and be looking at
something that has not changed, in many ways, since the 1500s. All
the extras were people in the town. It was a strange and unusual
experience for them. We were like this
army that rolled into town,
but hopefully we were a friendly one.
How did you discover it? I credit our
director, John Curran. He kept getting taken to a lot of places
that had been filmed in Chinese films and that were known. He kept
saying, "This isn't the end of the earth to me." He kept pushing
them farther and farther out, and he finally went really far enough
out that he saw it and said, "This is it."
How far from Shanghai are we talking? It's
a three-and-a-half-hour flight to the east
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