You don’t have to wait till winter to hit the powder. Here’s a handy guide to skiing year-round.
WINTER WONDERLANDS
Prime-time Northern Hemisphere snowsliding ranges from North America’s west coast to Europe’s Alps. In Europe, the snow playgrounds cover enormous expanses (often spread over multiple mountains), rise above treelines, and sometimes cross national borders. A prevailing “no boundaries” policy permits off-piste skiing beyond the marked runs that can create true adventure. Simultaneously, an underlying laid-back attitude is manifested by two-hour, multicourse lunches punctuated with fine wine. European skiing is a lifestyle more than a sport, and the off-slope ambience invites cultural and historical exploration.
Val d’Isère, France. Charlie Leocha, the publisher of Ski/Snowboard Europe and www.skisnowboardeurope.com, says, “This is one of the most extensive ski areas in Europe. It links with Tignes, and the traditional base village is packed with France’s best ski-resort restaurants.” Consider, too, its 186 miles of marked trails, 104 lifts, terrific lift-served off-piste runs, and good beginner runs near the top. 011-033-479-06-06-60, www.valdisere.com
Kitzbühel, Austria. Kitzbühel is a small, medieval town with an extensive intermediate-friendly ski area. Site of the famous Hahnenkamm Race, the varied slopes serve all abilities, and although it has a reputation for being expensive, diverse accommodations fit most budgets. 011-43-53-5662-1550, www.kitzbuhel.com
Innsbruck, Austria. This Olympic city of 100,000-plus “is great for a mismatched couple,” notes Ted Heck, publisher of the Blue Book of European Ski Resorts. Seven ski areas are within easy bus rides, and the abundant attractions for the nonskier include palaces, museums, theater, and first-rate shopping. The expert runs at Hungerburg are steep and bump-laden. At Axams, runs to the valley base reach four miles long. For off-piste, it’s Glungezer summit. 011-43-51-2598-500, www.tiscover.at/innsbruck
Western North American resorts also blanket expansive acreage, albeit not as vastly as places like Val d’Isère. High elevations create light snow that falls in huge quantities. Despite eastern skiing’s reputation for being icy, terrific terrain exists on a smaller scale, and snow “farming” — the science of creating and grooming man-made snow — produces surprisingly good conditions.
Lake Tahoe, California/Nevada. Lake Tahoe’s 19 ski areas come in all sizes, inviting sampling. Four of note: Massive Squaw Valley USA is famous for its expert/extreme terrain and a unique mountaintop novice area, dining, and activity center. Alpine Meadows is equally huge, but projects a more low-key atmosphere. Northstar at Tahoe is family-friendly thanks to on-slope condos and extensive kids’ programming. Heavenly has two-state skiing, fantastic lake views, and a vibrant casino-hopping nightlife. (888) 982-1088, www.skitahoe.com
Banff/Lake Louise, Alberta, Canada. Set in a UNESCO World Heritage Site, the area’s scenery, signature castle-style hotels, and vast wilderness set the standard for snowsliding vacations. Ski Lake Louise delights with fine tree skiing and steeps. Sunshine Village’s unique midmountain “base” lodge sits amid extensive bowl skiing that straddles the Continental Divide. Banff National Park possesses boundless Nordic ski and non-ski options. (403) 762-8421, www.banfflakelouise.com
Vail/Beaver Creek, Colorado. For sheer lateral (not necessarily vertical) vastness, complemented by panache and upscale ambience, this is it. And no one offers more premier ski-in/ski-out accommodations than these twin resorts. You can slide forever in Vail’s famous back bowls, while Beaver Creek’s steeps are very much underrated. (888) 222-9324, www.vailresorts.com
Park City, Utah. This spectacular ski destination consists
of three resorts set in a funky, historic mining town gorged with charismatic shops and eateries. The first is Park City Resort, which claims Utah’s most comprehensive terrain park, snowboarding, and free-skiing facilities. The Canyons Resort has 144 named trails and a 3,100-foot vertical drop, and Deer Valley Resort, while renowned for its posh atmosphere, gourmet on-slope dining, and meticulous grooming, hides surprising challenges. (800) 453-1360, www.parkcityinfo.com
Jackson Hole, Wyoming. Slide down frightening chutes and bowls. Ski far off-piste. Then explore Grand Teton and Yellowstone National Parks by snow coach, snowmobile, or Nordic skis. Or make a day trip to nearby Grand Targhee Resort, one of the continent’s best powder skiing locales. (800) 443-6931, www.jacksonhole.com
Lake Placid, New York. The experience at this former Olympic site is as much about the off-hill fun (bobsled, luge, old-time
tobogganing, ice skating, etc.), good dining, and a quaint downtown, as it is about the skiing on Whiteface Mountain. International winter sports competitions are staged almost weekly. (800) 447-5224, www.lakeplacid.com
A SPRING IN YOUR STEP
Spring skiing is an oft-overlooked wonder. The days are longer, the temperatures warmer, the snow softer, and — a little recognized fact — in most places March brings the greatest snowfall, creating super conditions.
Alpine Meadows, California. The skiing here goes well into May. Twelve lifts, more than 2,000 skiable acres, and an average annual snowfall of nearly 500 inches translates into big-mountain snowsliding at its best. Advanced sliders love the front face’s “Adventure Zone” and the bowls off of Ward Peak. Those less skilled get thrills on Scott Peak’s backside. (800) 441-4423, www.alpinemeadows.com
Squaw Valley, California. Squaw Valley is legendary for its long season (into June); its vast bowls, cornices, and steep faces; and its mountaintop novice area and adjacent recreation center complete with ice rink, swimming pool, restaurants, and night skiing. And did we mention the 4,000-plus acres of terrain? (800) 403-0206, www.squaw.com
Mammoth Mountain, California. This is one huge place with one very long season. How big? Stand at the top, look all around, and what you’ll see is but a quarter of the skiable terrain. How long a season? Regulars complain if there’s no skiing for July 4th weekend. (800) 626-6684, www.mammothmountain.com
Arapahoe Basin, Colorado. With the continent’s highest lift-served elevation, A-Basin offers Colorado’s latest closing date — usually in June. (888) 272-7246
Mont Sainte Anne, Quebec. The skiing lasts well into May here. No matter the season, you can take on World Cup-rated runs, excellent groomed or ungroomed steeps, tree skiing (including a glade designed just for kids), a fine terrain park, and endless Nordic
skiing. But it’s the charm of the St. Lawrence River views and
history-rich Quebec City that make this site special. (888) 827-3434, www.montsainteanne.com
SUMMERTIME AND THE SKIING IS EASY
A common misconception is that you must go south to summer ski. Okay, it’s true that Northern Hemisphere summer skiing is limited (ski late morning because early means icy, later means mush), but the novelty is enchanting.
Timberline/Mount Hood, Oregon. Dominated by ski and ride (snowboard) camps, snowsliders can learn racing, terrain park, halfpipe, or general skills on the famous Palmer snowfield. Open skiing is allowed, but the camps use much of the turf. (800) 547-1406, www.timberlinelodge.com
Whistler/Blackcomb, British Columbia. Glacier skiing goes on nearly all summer, as do the ski/ride camps. Toss in superb on-site golf and other summer activities and wow! These colossal twin peaks, with their knee-knocking 5,000-foot vertical drop, are an international destination year-round because they have it all: extreme
terrain, wide cruising trails, tremendous bowls, “gnarly” terrain parks, a pair of meandering seven-mile-long runs, and a resort village overflowing with superb dining and hyperactive après-ski. (800) 766-0449, www.whistler-blackcomb.com
Zermatt, Switzerland. “If you want to go for beauty, go to Zermatt,” says Ted Heck. “It sits under the most distinctive and beautiful rock in the world — the Matterhorn.” The high elevation of its three ski areas and 74 lifts means reliable snow year-round. Come summer, there’s limited pitch, like most glacier skiing — but, oh, those Matterhorn views. The car-free village, replete with horse-drawn carriages, radiates a congenial storybook flavor. A must: Ski from Klein Matterhorn cross-border to Cervina, Italy. 011-041-027-966-8100, www.zermatt.ch
Innsbruck/Stubaital, Austria. “Among the most extensive glacier skiing areas in the world and, unlike others, it has pitches for everyone, including experts,” says Skisnowboardeurope.com’s Charlie Leocha.
Countries below the equator — we’re talking New Zealand and South America — are also exceptional in the summertime.
Queenstown, New Zealand’s busiest South Island resort town, picturesquely set on Lake Wakatipu, is the gateway to three ski areas within an hour’s drive. Better still, with 150-plus restaurants and bars, “It’s the après-ski capital of the world,” asserts Scott Lee of the New Zealand Ski Marketing Network.
Over on the North Island, two major ski “fields” — as locals say — sit on opposite sides of a semiactive volcano. Not to worry, eruptions aren’t common. But the young geology does yield steep chutes, couloirs, and excellent variety.
Additionally, warm, low-elevation valleys make fellow summer activities — hiking, trout fishing, water-skiing, and, right where it was invented, bungee jumping — a New Zealand ski-experience trademark.
Coronet Peak and The Remarkables, New Zealand. These Queenstown ski fields are completely above treeline. The result? Open bowls, knolls, ridges, chutes — and nothing to get in the way. Coronet, the country’s best-known resort, has good terrain for everyone and abundant off-trail skiing. The Remarkables serves intermediates and families well, and for the intrepid, there’s excellent hike-to terrain. 011-64-3-441-1800, www.queenstownnz.co.nz
Whakapapa and Turoa, New Zealand. Set on Mount Ruapehu, these fields have the country’s greatest uphill capacity, needed to accommodate regulars from Auckland and Wellington. At Turoa’s base stands Ohakune, a lively little party town popular with snowboarders. Lodging at Whakapapa is limited to ski club lodges, but overnights in nearby Turangi allow easy access to warm-weather activities. 011-64-07-892-3738, www.mtruapehu.com
When you’re skiing South America’s Andes, “the major difference is very few lift lines,” says Shannon Luthy Lukens, who covers the Southern Hemisphere for Onthesnow.com. South American skiing is also a bargain, as vacations usually sell as complete packages.
Portillo, Chile. Fully 80 percent of the terrain is groomed in Portillo, and it’s known for its friendly atmosphere and impeccable service. Two so-called slingshot lifts — high-speed surface lifts that virtually fling you uphill — provide unique challenges. And thrills. (800) 829-5325, www.skiportillo.com
Valle Nevado, Chile. Just 36 miles from Santiago Airport, Valle Nevado is the Southern Hemisphere’s largest ski resort, boasting 23,000 acres of skiable terrain. It’s terrific for hard-core sliders and has South America’s only superpipe, copious bowls, and night skiing. 011-56-2-477-7700, www.vallenevado.com
Las Leñas, Argentina. It’s the Southern Hemisphere’s best, according to some, but access requires multi-ple plane and bus connections. Still, how about a 4,035-foot vertical drop? Plus, skiing from 11,253 feet? With 40 runs and 12 lifts, there’s terrain for everyone. Completely self-contained, the lodging is first-class, and in the Piscis Hotel you’ll find the world’s highest-elevation casino. 011-54-262-7471-318, www.laslenasvacations.com
A SNOW-FALL
A bit of logic: When it’s autumn in the Northern Hemisphere, it’s springtime down south. So what? So ski fanatics might be better served by the Southern Hemisphere’s spring conditions than the north’s limited early season.
The best late-season New Zealand skiing is found at the South Island’s Mount Hutt, an hour’s drive from Christchurch, where the snows normally last well into October. On the North Island, it’s Turoa, which last season stayed open until Christmas. In South America, either Portillo or Las Leñas, because of their el-evation, is a good bet for September and October snowsliding.
For those of you who can’t duck down under, try these fall features.
Killington, Vermont. Just a few trails will be open, but by Halloween they’ll be skiing. And the fun goes on until Memorial Day. The biggest resort in the eastern U.S., Killington flaunts a huge snowmaking system, five base areas, six peaks, and a robust après-ski scene that lures plenty of twentysomethings. For a more staid/family-friendly environment, affiliated (but separate) Pico Resort satisfies without being overwhelming or boisterous. (800) 621-6867, www.killington.com
Sunday River, Maine. Their opening won’t be far behind neighboring Killington’s, and thanks to enormous snowmaking power, their season lasts nearly as long into spring. The snowsliding covers more than 100 trails on nine distinct peaks, including some of the best terrain parks in the eastern U.S. and a seemingly nonstop lineup of special events. In Bethel, a classic, sleepy New England town just six miles away, there are some good restaurants, shopping, and Nordic skiing. (800) 543-2754, www.sundayriver.com
Loveland Ski Area, Colorado. Opening day here — the closest ski area to downtown Denver — is usually mid-October. While the resort borders I-70 and appears, by Colorado standards, diminutive, more than 1,300 skiable acres on varied terrain and a delightful family-owned ambience keep early- and full-season sliders happy. (800) 736-3754, www.skiloveland.com
Mont Tremblant, Quebec. Yet another eastern resort with a long season — at both ends. The skiing covers four connected areas and is served by one of the continent’s most modern lift systems. The base village, although new, exudes French-Canadian flair and charm. It can get cold here, even in early fall, so pack well and be prepared. (866) 836-3030, www.tremblant.com
Alta, Utah. Ranked number-one for early-season snow by the staff of Ski & Snowboard America & Canada, Alta presents a trip back in time to leisurely lifts, minimal development, and 2,000 acres of heavenly snowsliding. The powder skiing here is legendary. The bad news: Snowboarding is prohibited. The good news: Huge Snowbird Resort sits a mile down the road, allows snowboarders, and offers an interchangeable lift ticket. (888) 782-9258, www.alta.com
liz lomax is an award-winning illustrator based in brooklyn, new york.
hot tips for cold fun
families
steamboat springs resort, colorado
they invented kids-ski-free packages and offer excellent activities. the town has many diversions, including an indoor hot spring with water slide. (877) 237-2628, www.steamboat.com
winter park resort, colorado
their superb kids’ programs cost less than most competitors their size. (800) 979-0332, www.skiwinterpark.com
snowboarding
stratton mountain resort, vermont
stratton was among the first to permit snowboarding and is the site of the u.s. snowboarding open. (800) 787-2886, www.stratton.com
breckenridge resort, colorado
breck, too, welcomed riders early and continues to cater to them. (800) 789-7669, www.breckenridge.com
terrain parks
mountain high, california
where else but in skateboard-crazed socal? mountain high has five parks, a major halfpipe, and, riding the cutting edge, a snowskate park. (888) 754-7878, www.mthigh.com
mountain creek, new jersey
new jersey doesn’t leap to mind as a skiing mecca? well, mountain creek’s commitment is total, dude, including the mid-atlantic’s only superpipe, plus e-z rails to facilitate neophytes. (973) 827-2000, www.mountaincreek.com
value
eastern townships, quebec
four ski areas brim with french-canadian charm at prices way lower than those just across the border. (800) 355-5755, www.tourisme-cantons.qc.ca
andorra
an entire country? yes! squeezed between spain and france, this has long been europe’s duty-free, bargain-hunters’ delight. and the skiing’s darned good. 011-376-864-389, www.skiandorra.com
waterville valley, new hampshire
one-price lift tickets ($39 per adult every day) set waterville apart. (800) 468-2553, www.waterville.com
purists
red mountain, british columbia
red mountain is a completely glitz-free, archaic gem. only five lifts operate, but they reach a 3,900-foot vertical drop and superlative in-bounds expert terrain. (877) 969-7669, www.ski-red.com
baqueira/beret, spain
the country’s largest resort ranks high for indigenous ambience. the narrow and deep val d’aran is a living museum, with its own zealously preserved heritage that renders a ski vacation culturally enriching. 011-034-973-63-9010, www.baqueira.es
luxe
blanket bay resort, queenstown, new zealand
only the breathtaking lake wakatipu and mountain views overshadow the modern elegance, fastidious service, gourmet dining, and helicopter skiing from the front door. 011-64-3-442-9441, www.blanketbay.com
badrutt’s palace hotel, st. moritz, switzerland
the place to see and be seen, and among the world’s most elegant hotels. gents, bring a suit and tie or be banned from the hotel’s public areas come nightfall. 011-041-081-837-1000, www.badruttspalace.com
park hyatt beaver creek resort & spa, beaver creek, colorado
the ultimate in ski-in/ski-out sites, with a 20,000-square-foot spa, free internet-equipped rooms, a “ski ambassador” for lessons and tours, full pool and fitness facilities, and much, much more. (800) 233-1234, www.beavercreek.hyatt.com