FROM GRAPE TO GLASS
Begin at Seguin Moreau Napa Cooperage, across from the Napa Airport
and just north of Vallejo, for its fascinating, and
often-overlooked, tour demonstrating how air-dried wooden staves
are gathered around metal hoops to form the open-fired 60-gallon
oak barrels in which most wines begin their journey. Armed with
knowledge of the beginning of the winemaking process, the best
winery at which to start is St. Supéry Vineyards and Winery, which
makes perhaps the valley's best Sauvignon Blanc. Its self-guided
tour features a demonstration vineyard, crush station, and gallery
with a view of the fermentation room, barrel room, and
topographical maps. Stick your nose deep down into one of the
plastic "Smellavision" tubes, press a button, and experience what a
Cabernet smells like or the typical aromas of a Sauvignon Blanc.
OFF THE BEATEN PATH
Taste some of the best Zinfandel in the valley at Nils Venge's
Saddleback Cellars. Venge, a world-class vintner, gained fame as
the first winemaker at Groth Vineyard to garner perfect scores for
his Cabernets.
Then stop by Oakville Grocery for picnic supplies before heading up
to Chateau Potelle, where you can lunch under a gazebo, sip some
consummate Cabernets, Zinfandels, and Sauvignon Blancs, and take in
the view from a lofty 2,000-foot elevation.
At Smith-Madrone Winery, you'll find Stu Smith, a bear of a man,
who makes the best Rieslings in all of
California. His Rieslings
start out sweet and finish dry. They are gems, especially those
made from grapes grown atop Spring Mountain (where the TV series
Falcon Crest was filmed).
One of the most unusual specialty wineries is the postmodern Clos
Pegase in Calistoga. Aside from making superb Cabernets, Clos
Pegase is a tribute to art and architecture. Completed in 1987, the
winery was designed by
Princeton architect
Michael Graves in the
style of a Minoan Grecian temple. The outdoor sculpture garden
features works by
Henry Moore,
Richard Serra, and Mark di Suvero. A
multimedia presentation called "A Bacchanalian History of Wine Seen
Through 4,000 Years of Art" is presented free every third Saturday.