We gather bright and early in the ice bar (after a warm
breakfast and a much-needed Finnish sauna to thaw our snow-bearded
bodies). The palpable excitement in the open, nippy room suggests
an Olympic event. Red-suited fans prepare to cheer on their
favorites, their new friends, and their colleagues. Festive and
laden with every manner of cocktail tool and ingredient, the bar
swarms with color and texture. Besides bottles of Finlandia, there
are also bottles of Campari, Midori, blue curaçao, and amaretto,
which glisten like multicolored jewels. Tall lights set up for the
event cast a blue glow throughout the bar, evoking a sultry -
albeit frosty - nightclub ambience. And behind all the martini
glasses, bowls of lime, and passion-fruit puree, stand the
contenders.
"Ready, steady, shake!" says Markku Raittinen, and the bartenders
begin. An impossibly tiny bartender, a veritable sprite from
Ukraine, grins fiendishly as she measures ingredients; a strapping,
former professional
basketball player from Belgrade struggles with
matches to light orange peels for his garnishes; and a handsome
Turk rubs his hands together between shaking canisters. Thrill
joins the chill in the air as the seven minutes speed by. Some
bartenders work studiously, their manner sober and profound. Others
play to the audience, raising bottles like the holy sacrament
before pouring thin streams into tall glasses.
As a judge, I must retire to the "panic room," a heated room
adjacent to the bar, and prepare to receive the drinks. It's hard
to leave the frosty dither of the competition. Already briefed, I
know that drinks will be judged by taste, aroma, aesthetics, and
star quality, an all-encompassing category that includes the power
of the drink's name. My team of four, led by Soul Shaker Michael B,
gets serious. Though I have been hoping to spit, Michael threatens
me with my life. "Nobody on my team spits out a cocktail. You must
swallow it in order to experience its entire palette." I see. My
hopes of remaining moderately unscathed and uninebriated are
immediately dashed.