South Africa | Stellenbosch University | Neil Ellis

Back in the 1950s, an adventuresome viticulturalist at Stellenbosch University in Cape Province decided to try to cross the delicate and finicky Pinot Noir with the more robust southern French varietal Cinsaut, which was known in South Africa as Hermitage. The resulting hybrid was dubbed “Pinotage.” Growers loved this grape’s vigorous performance in the vineyard, but because of its overly bright, acidic flavors, most vintners had a hard time taking this Pinot stepchild seriously for fine wines.

In the 1990s, however, growers and vintners took a second look at Pinotage. They liked what they saw. With lower yields, cooler fermentation, and the judicious use of oak, winemakers found that they could harness the grape’s assertive fruit while taming its overly aggressive character. Pinotage has now become South Africa’s trademark varietal. The 1997 Fleur du Cap Pinotage is smoky, dense, and plummy, with good texture and length.

BUYER'S GUIDE

Rupert & Rothschild 1998, $45
Velvety and Spicy
great with pork loin

Neil Ellis 2000 Sauvignon Blanc, $15
Lush and Tangy
perfection with oysters

Fleur du Cap 1997 Pinotage, $12
Smoky and Dense
try it with game