Stanley P. Morrison Company | Japan
For Peat’s Sake
by
Anthony Dias BlueIt's the scent of peat that's the
distinctive characteristic in these fine Scotch spirits, and
this trio of Islay-produced whiskies make great gifts for the
well-traveled road warrior.
More than any other Scotch whisky-producing region, Islay
(pronounced "EYE-luh") has a magical attraction for single-malt
drinkers. Isolated from the mainland on their windswept isle off
the western coast, the residents of Islay turned for solace to a
strong, kilt-lifting spirit that they started producing back in the
15th century. This uisge beatha, Scots Gaelic for "water of life,"
gives us our word whisky.
One of the basic raw materials for whisky production is easy to
come by here: Islay is a veritable peat bog, so rich in the
substance that even the water is permeated with its color and
flavor. Peat reek has become the signature of all Islay single
malts to a greater or lesser degree.
Another component that can readily be detected in most Islay
whiskies
is their salinity. With the distilleries built near the coast to
facilitate access to and from the mainland, the sea air adds a
distinctive taste of salt, seaweed, and brine. Whether the
saltiness comes mainly from the malting water, from the
salt-sprayed peat used in the drying kilns, or from sea breezes
that play around the barrel warehouses during maturation is one of
the mysteries of Islay.
These whiskies are an acquired taste, but they also make great
gifts for the well-traveled road warrior … or are a great way to
impress a cultured boss.
BOWMORE 21-YEAR-OLD ($150)
Bowmore takes its name from Islay's principal town, where the
distillery is the major feature in the landscape. Given Bowmore's
prominent position overlooking Loch Indaal, some have compared it
to a fortress, and during World War II it was in fact used as a
base for flying boat squadrons. These days, fortunately, whisky is
again the main order of business at Bowmore. Ownership passed to
Stanley P. Morrison Company in 1951, and the firm, now known as
Morrison Bowmore Distillers, was bought by Suntory, the Japanese
megaconglomerate, in 1994. Bowmore is, understandably, a big hit in
Japan.
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