Spin the Bottle
PB&J FOR DINNER? PIZZA? MAC AND CHEESE? IF YOU CAN’T THINK OF A GOOD WINE TO SERVE, YOU NEED TO TALK TO JOSHUA WESSON. BY JENNA SCHNUER. PHOTOGRAPH BY STEVE MOORS.
IT ALL STARTED WITH HIS BAR MITZVAH GIFTS. The son of a restaurant advertising guy, Joshua Wesson was probably one of the only kids at his temple to receive case upon case of French and Italian wines for his bar mitzvah. But by the time his 18th birthday came around (at that time, 18 was the legal drinking age), there were just five or six bottles left. His father, the wine bandit, “always insisted that he did it out of service to the wines because [they] would not have lasted five years in our storage condition,” says Wesson, a former sommelier and the cofounder of Best Cellars, a chain of snobbery-free wineshops. But he disputes his pop’s claim. “A lot of these bottles were vaunted bottles. These wines probably would have made it to [my 18th] and probably would have even lasted a lot longer, had the corks remained inside of them.”
Alas, his drinking loss is our gain. Wesson, now 51, went to grad school to study public health, but memories of a postcollege stint at a restaurant eventually made him reconsider. So he dropped out to step into the front of the house at some of New York’s top dining spots. He eventually became a sommelier and, soon after winning a French-government-sponsored contest for U.S. sommeliers, went out on his own as a wine consultant and writer. He penned books, starting with 1989’s Red Wine with Fish: The New Art of Matching Wine with Food, with David Rosengarten, who later became a Food Network regular. Then, in 1996, Wesson opened his first Best Cellars store. He has always had a “democratic and egalitarian view of wine’s place in the world,” he says. “I never had my pinkie out.”
The stores (there are now seven — in New York; Boston; Washington, D.C.; Dallas; and Arlington, Virginia) group wines by taste, then separate them into eight style categories such as fizzy, fresh, soft, luscious, juicy, smooth, big, and sweet. And the description of each wine at Best Cellars is downright fun to read. Wesson’s goal: to make the “experience of shopping … almost as satisfying as drinking the stuff.”
We’ll drink to that.
WE PUT WESSON’S taste filter to the test on a supermarket’s worth of everyday meals. For each dish, he recommends one wine that everybody (of age and, well, good taste) will enjoy and a second one that’s for those who are looking for something a bit more adventurous.
Grilled burgers and hot dogs
Spices? What spices? These babies are straightforward on-the-grill meats. You know, the kind your kids will actually eat.
The easy choice: Syrahs from California “deliver lots of fruit and easygoing pleasure,” says Wesson. “They don’t require any synaptic firepower to enjoy. They’re happy wines and rarely fail to deliver the smiles.” But stick with the California bottles, which are fruitier than their cousins from other places. No need to spend a lot: One that’s less than $15 will usually do the trick.
The adventure: A sparkling Shiraz from Australia is “usually fruity but dry or off-dry, and with effervescence that’s less aggressive than you find in Champagne,” says Wesson. “It has wonderful mouthwatering flavors and nice acidity.”
Easy: Rosenblum Cuvee Syrah 2004/05 ($13)
Adventure: Rumball Sparkling Shiraz NV ($25)
Veggie burger — sautéed or microwaved
Some people live on them. Some just tolerate them — barely. No matter how you feel about veggie burgers, your spirits will be lifted by pairing them with a refreshing white wine.
The easy choice: An off-dry Riesling from Germany will cut through the vegetable oil (on the burger as a result from sautéing it) and pair nicely with the slight sweetness of the mixed vegetables.
The adventure: Hop over to Galicia for an Albariño, “the most vaunted white wine in all of Spain,” says Wesson. It’s brilliant with all sorts of shellfish and seafood, and is also great for veggie-based dishes.
Easy: Dr. Loosen/Dr. L Riesling 2005 ($12)
Adventure: Morgadío Albariño 2005 ($20)
Mac and cheese
We’re not talking about any out-of-the-box mac and cheese. We’re talking about the multicheese version you make from a recipe in Gourmet. While many people think you should always pair cheese with reds, “most wine folks will tell you that white wines tend to go better with a wide range of cheeses,” says Wesson. The same holds true here “because of the creaminess of the sauce and the multiplicity of cheeses” in the dish.
The easy choice: Go with a Pinot Gris from Alsace. “They’re rich and full of flavor, yet have this lovely ability to unzip rich foods,” says Wesson.
The adventure: Wesson raves about his recent experience of drinking a California sparkling wine in the style of a Blanc de Noirs. “It’s a white wine made from red grapes to give it a little bit of extra body and flavor,” he says. The effervescence serves to refresh the palate and counter the saltiness of mac and cheese.
Easy: Lucien Albrecht Cuvée Romanus Pinot Gris 2005 ($18)
Adventure: Domaine Chandon Blanc de Noirs NV ($22)
Spaghetti and meatballs, with sauce from a jar
Feeling lazy? No worries. You still deserve a taste extravaganza.
The easy choice: Make it a regional pairing and choose a Nero d’Avola from Sicily. One of Wesson’s “favorite go-to wines” when he can’t find anything else on a wine list, these medium-bodied babies made from an ancient grape “rarely disappoint.” He adds: “It should be bound with the ragù. They should be sold as a pair. They’re twins separated at birth.”
The adventure: The twin has some competition — a Primitivo from Puglia. Made from the same grape as Zinfandel, Primitivos are “more medium-bodied wines that are wildly food friendly,” says Wesson.
Easy: Cusumano Nero d’Avola 2005 ($12)
Adventure: Li Veli Orion Primitivo 2005 ($12)
Spring salad with grilled chicken, chickpeas, loads of different vegetables, and feta cheese
Whether it’s made of leftovers you’ve thrown together or it’s something you’ve planned from the get-go, this salad calls for a wine that’s light, refreshing, and modest in alcohol.
The easy choice: Fruity Sauvignon Blanc wines from New Zealand are “in an ascendant state right now,” says Wesson, and you won’t have to spend more than $15 for a delicious example.
The adventure: Try the same wine from a different part of the world. Sauvignon Blancs from South Africa are also coming into their own as “vinous stars.” Raves our wine guy: “The best examples are essentially amped-up versions of what you get from New Zealand.”
Easy: Giesen Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2006 ($12)
Adventure: Buitenverwachting Sauvignon Blanc 2005 ($15)
Hard cheese and crackers
You always keep these staples on hand for the drop-by-unannounced types. A few sturdy reds will wait with them with ease. Medium- to full-bodied reds are the safest bets with firm cheeses (soft and semi-soft cheeses go better with light- to medium-bodied unoaked whites).
The easy choice: A red Côtes du Rhône. These blends of up to 15 different grape varieties “have been refined over decades of blending to the point where the top wines are far better than the sum of their parts,” Wesson says. They’re great wines to always have on hand. Just don’t store them in the cupboard above your fridge (better in the broom closet or under the bed — or any cool place that’s dark and free from vibration).
The adventure: Ah, an Argentine Malbec. Stock up on this reliable wine. Malbecs in the $10 to $15 range “deliver the goods in boatloads,” says Wesson. “They don’t make a fuss; they’re there to please.” They’ll treat your taste buds well, whether you pair them with cheese and crackers, cold steak, or take-out barbecued ribs.
Easy: Paul Jaboulet Aîné Parallèle “45” 2005 ($12)
Adventure: Graffigna “G” Malbec 2004 ($14)
Peanut-butter-and-jelly sandwich
Whether it’s a late night or just a lazy night, PB&Js deserve to be served with (and require) a wine that’s refreshing and a bit sweet.
The easy choice: Don’t laugh: Wesson wants you to open your mind to White Zinfandel. He calls the pairing with PB&J “White Zin’s highest and best use. [It’s] easy to malign, but it gives milk a run for its money.”
The adventure: For a high-end experience, go with a demi-sec Champagne. They’re the “driest version of a dessert Champagne, but aren’t so sweet as to ever taste cloying,” he says. And you won’t even need a spoon to clear the top of your palate of lingering peanut butter — the Champagne’s scrubbing bubbles will take care of that for you.
Easy: Buehler Vineyards Napa Valley White Zinfandel 2005 ($10)
Adventure: Veuve Clicquot Ponsardin Demi-Sec Champagne NV ($48)
Canned chicken noodle soup
Liquid on liquid is, forgive the pun, a “slippery slope,” says Wesson.
The easy choice: Portuguese Vinho Verdes provide a refreshing break from the salt in canned soup. The lightly bubbly beverage is also just plain fun to drink.
The adventure: For an “esoteric combination,” Wesson suggests a Fino Sherry. The fortified wine, which is a swell match for salty foods, will feel heavier than the soup, upending the texture contrast provided by the lighthearted Vinho Verde.
Easy: Famega Vinho Verde 2006 ($6)
Adventure: Domecq Dry Fino La Ina Sherry NV ($17)
Barbecued ribs with a slightly sweet vinegar-based wet rub
It’s all about wildly fruity reds for this sweet, tangy dish.
The easy choice: A Beaujolais Villages will have you sipping pretty with your
napkin-busting meal. But don’t go for a fancy Beaujolais Cru — you want a young “grapy and shamelessly gulpable” Beaujolais, Wesson says.
The adventure: It’s time for the bubbly soda of wines — a dry Lambrusco. Though they’re treated with great respect in their home region of Emilia Romagna, Italy, they got a bad rap in the United States during the 1970s when cheap versions were widely distributed. Since then, they “have really come into their own,” says Wesson. “They’re complex wines with real substance to them.”
Easy: Domaine Berrod Beaujolais Villages 2005/06 ($12)
Adventure: Pederzana Grasparossa Lambrusco 2005 ($18)
Pizza — half pepperoni, half mushroom
You may go halfsies with your significant other on the pie toppings, but both of you can share the wine.
The easy choice: Chianti’s the obvious answer here — but you don’t want an aged Chianti. Go for a young, fairly fruity example. The acidity will cut through the fat of both the pepperoni and the cheese, and its hint of earthiness will echo the boskiness of the mushrooms. So, no Classicos or Riservas. Stay young.
The adventure: Be daring: Leave Italy, and head to Spain for a Rioja sin Crianza, which is fruity and forward and pairs well with pizza.
Easy: Cecchi Chianti DOCG 2005 ($11)
Adventure: Bodegas Sierra Cantabria Rioja 2004 ($14)
NYC-based freelance writer JENNA SCHNUER recommends Port with boiled peanuts — although she admits that it’s an acquired taste.