HIP OLD SLEEPOVER
The Edgewater, Pier 67, 2411 Alaskan Way, (206) 728-7000 - Seattle today may run on DSL and caffeine, but the place originally was built on timber and fishing. With many rooms set directly over the water on Pier 67, the Edgewater is a palace of traditional Pacific Northwest ambience - rough-hewn furniture, stone fireplaces, plaid interiors, mountain-and-ocean views - that for years has been the "local secret" where Seattleites put up out-of-town guests. The Beatles spent the night here during their 1964 U.S. tour - Led Zeppelin, Mick Jagger, Frank Zappa, Kiss, and others followed suit - but extensive 2002 renovations to the lobby, restaurant, and all guest rooms have helped this one keep its Edge.

NEW RESTAURANT OF THE MOMENT
Palace Kitchen, 2030 Fifth Ave., (206) 448-2001 - Tom Douglas' bio lists his height as "tall" and weight "round," but little else about Seattle's most popular restaurateur is ambiguous. Douglas likes big flavors, hearty drinks, and a bustling atmosphere. By arranging these elements around a giant horseshoe-shaped bar in downtown, and by serving a full dinner menu daily until 1 a.m., Douglas has turned his third restaurant, Palace Kitchen, into the city's hottest dining room. The cheeses and appetizers alone are worth a stop - olive poppers with herbed sour cream are a happy hour essential - but full meals from the large, apple-wood grill are what turn after-work get-togethers into full-tilt affairs. Lots of fresh fish is on the menu - wild salmon, mackerel stuffed with lemon - but the Oregon beef rib is as good as anything you'll find in a pricier steakhouse.

OLD RESTAURANT OF THE MOMENT