The Holy Grail Of Ale
by Douglas WissingWant to taste the world's best (and
rarest) beer? Then you'd better get in line early.
It was a quest for the holy grail of beers, the legendary brews of
the remote Belgian Trappist abbey of Saint Sixtus. Searching the
west Flanders
platteland, we drove through countryside so
flat the mountains of harvested sugar beets provided the only
topographic relief. A dome of low, gray clouds hung overhead as we
bumbled down farm lanes and allées, seemingly forever thwarted.
With more than 500 different kinds of beers, Belgians enjoy one of
the world's great brewing traditions. The country's 100-plus
breweries produce an array of styles: wild-yeasted
lambics
and cherry-tinged
krieks, Belgian pale ales and
oud
bruin brown ones, lively
witbiers, Flanders' crisp
golden Duvel (named after the devil), Wallonia's intriguing and
unpredictable
saisons.
But above all these beers, it's the ales of the six Belgian
Trappist monasteries that have captivated beer aficionados
worldwide. And these connoisseurs have canonized the smallest and
most isolated monastery of the bunch, Saint Sixtus, as the finest
Trappist brewery of all, hailing the monks' rich, impossibly
complex Westvleteren 12 as the best - and rarest - beer on earth.
The Spartans of the monastery movement, Trappists adhere to an
austere cloistered regimen that requires self-sufficiency and
manual labor. They founded Saint Sixtus in 1831, and by 1836 they
were brewing beer that garnered renown. But in 1945, the monks made
a momentous decision: They would no longer sell commercially. To
focus on spiritual matters, the monks decided to limit their sales
to the abbey and the nearby In de Vrede café, which remain the only
authorized sources of Westvleteren beer. "[It's] the most famous
beer in Belgium," says
Michael Jackson, famous British beer maven
and author of
The Great Beers of Belgium.
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