Vancouver | Canada | Opus Hotel | Granville Island

Model Citizen

by Mark Seal
Image about Vancouver

Model Citizen

Lost's Evangeline Lilly really found herself for the first time in Vancouver, amid casual cafés, swank hotels, and … cigar smoke.
• Photograph by Anthony Mandler

On the ABC megahit Lost, she plays Kate, a beautiful, fearless fugitive who falls prey to all manner of misadventure. But Evangeline Lilly's real-life escapades are almost as wild as anything her television character experiences. Born in a tiny town called Fort Saskatchewan, in Alberta, Canada (where her father was a home economics teacher and her mother worked as a beauty consultant), she has always been drawn to the great outdoors. "The winter lasts pretty long there, six to seven months," she says of her hometown. "So I was the kid who was trekking to school in a full snowsuit and a ski mask, lifting my legs above my thighs to try to get over the snow." ¶ Lilly was walking on the street in less hazardous conditions when she was discovered by a talent agent. At first, acting was not her thing - and modeling certainly wasn't. She was headed to the University of British Columbia in Vancouver to study international relations. But she kept the agent's card, just in case, because, she says, "You just never know when having a contact out in the city would be a good thing." Sure enough, needing tuition money and tired of working "full-time jobs while going to school full-time and having that compromise [her] education," she pulled out the card, called the agent, and was soon doing commercials, which eventually led to her starring role on Lost. ¶ But we're getting ahead of our story. Here's a trip into Evangeline Lilly's early life in Vancouver, as well as some of what she's learned along the way.

I understand you are quite the outdoorswoman, on and off the set of Lost, which makes Vancouver a perfect place for you. Give us a sense of the layout of the city. Vancouver is actually a city very much like Honolulu, ironically, in that it is surrounded by mountains and ocean. It is very isolated. It is metropolitan in its center and core, but, primarily, most people who live in Vancouver are nature lovers and very outdoorsy. A lot of people there will snowboard and ski and mountain climb and run and cycle. When you come into the city, for the most part, it does not feel like a city. It doesn't feel like Manhattan until you get right into the downtown core, which is, actually, very much like Manhattan. Downtown's, like, a tiny little island, and it's surrounded by greater Vancouver. It's a grid; it's a perfect grid. Once you are in the downtown core, everything maps out relatively easily. But greater Vancouver sprawls out over miles and miles and miles.

Where do you like to stay when you go back? Probably my very favorite hotel in Vancouver is the Opus Hotel in Yaletown. Yaletown is sort of the young, posh area of Vancouver, and the Opus Hotel is a very swanky, very trendy hotel that, actually, is similar to the W chain of hotels, always very modern and minimalist in its interior design. The service is impeccable. It doesn't have the greatest view. A lot of the hotels in Vancouver are right on the water and have incredible views. This one is kind of stuck in the middle of the city, but it's a really cool hotel. When I was working for the Ford Talent Agency, doing commercials, there was an audition for models to work for Abercrombie & Fitch. I had this long, drawn-out conversation with my agent, during which they said they thought I should go. I said I was not a model, I was an actress, and I was not tall enough to be a model, and I was not skinny enough to be a model, and I should not go. They said, "No, you should go, because Abercrombie & Fitch goes for a more athletic, normal-looking model. They don't always go for the six-foot rakes." They convinced me, and I went and did it, and it was one of the most mortifying things I've ever done. I'm not a model. I'm very uncomfortable in front of a camera, and having people just scope me out to see if I look good enough was a very uncomfortable thing for me. But it was the first time I had ever been to the Opus Hotel, and I remember thinking at the time, If I ever have enough money to stay at a nice hotel in Vancouver, I would like to stay here. Years later, when I was working for Lost, I had to go back to Vancouver to do, ironically, a photo shoot. I requested that I get to stay in the Opus Hotel, and they put me up there, in this beautiful, monstrous suite. It was sort of a nice callback to my past life, when I could only dream about affording a hotel like that.

Where do you like to go for breakfast when you're out for the day in Vancouver? For breakfast, there is a tiny little café that is tucked away in the Kitsilano district, which is a very young and trendy part of Vancouver and where a lot of students rent when they are going to university; that's the area that I lived in. The café is called the Naam Restaurant, as in Vietnam, and it is all-organic, all-natural food. It's really quiet and sort of almost feels like a seedy environment, because it is so tucked away and so dark and moody at night. In the morning, it really feels like you could be tucked away in a café somewhere in another town from another life. I really love that little café for breakfast.

What are some of Vancouver's not-to-miss attractions? The Vancouver Art Gallery was a place I loved to go. It's really beautiful. I was back up in Vancouver over the Valentine's Day weekend this year, and I went back there again. They were showing one of my very favorite Canadian artists, Emily Carr. She was one of the founders of Canadian art, and she was very instrumental in moving art from the old school - imperial images that were all very realistically drawn and landscapes and families - to a slightly more modern and abstract vision of the world that incorporates truths that we don't always see. She was very affected by the Native Americans she lived with in the wilds of Canada. The outside of the museum is relatively hidden. When you are walking through the city, you can easily not realize that you just walked past a museum. Inside, it is very warm and yet stark and minimalist. It is very organized and very well respected. I think Canada is particularly fond of encouraging culture and art across the board. We have a multicultural national day, where in every city, every culture that lives there will come out and celebrate, whether that be Chinese or Indian or Native American or whatever that happens to be. The museum is a taste of that as well. You do see a lot of different things from different cultures.
   
Where would you go outdoors? Everyone who goes to Vancouver comes back raving about Stanley Park. It's one of the biggest parks in North America that's in the middle of a city. It's full of big, beautiful old evergreen trees, and it's just great for a long walk or run or cycle or Rollerblade or whatever you want to do on a pathway that follows the coast. It goes the depth of the forest and is really, really beautiful. If you are in Stanley Park, then you are really close to the Vancouver Aquarium. If you've got family, the aquarium is really a good one to visit. I think, for a lot of people my age and above, Whistler Blackcomb Ski Resort has become one of the biggest attractions near Vancouver and will probably only become more and more known after 2010, since Vancouver is hosting the 2010 Olympics. Whistler is one of these things that cause everyone who knows that I'm from Vancouver to be like, "How is it possible that you lived in Vancouver but have never been to Whistler?" It is one of the best attractions in British Columbia. I also enjoy taking trips to the islands. I'm so much more of a nature girl than a city girl. The islands are pretty amazing.

Which islands are your favorite? I like Victoria, which is located on Vancouver Island. Another town I like to go to on Vancouver Island is Tofino, where there is great surf. Tofino is very much like Hawaii. It is sort of a surf town, where everyone bums around in surf shorts and bikinis, and the culture is based around fishing and on sitting on the beach. The Pender Islands are other tiny islands that are off the coast. They are like many of the islands out there - Bowen Island, Salt Spring Island. There is a whole slew of tiny islands where you can get away from it all. You can completely disappear and stay in a cabin for two or three weeks, or for a month, and never see traffic, never see a high-rise, never see a subdivision. It's all just trees and water and cabins.

Okay, lunch. Where would you send us? Calhoun's Bakery Café and Catering, in the heart of Kitsilano. When you go there, you will see study groups, you will see dates, you will see businesspeople with laptops open. It's this huge space where there are tons and tons of tables. You can sit there for hours, having only one cup of coffee, and nobody is going to kick you out. So it's a really great place to be if you want to be somewhere in the day and have work to get done or studying to do or anything like that. I hung out there so much.

Being a waitress helped you make ends meet. Where did you work? I used to work at a chain of restaurants called Earls. I think I worked at three or four different Earls as a waitress. On the west coast of Canada, it's a huge chain that is very trendy, and people love to go there. It's very young and very hip and relatively inexpensive for what you get. They always have Margarita Mondays and Martini Tuesdays and things like that. You can find them pretty much in any sector of the city.

I understand you're pretty good at climbing trees. I love climbing trees. I actually did it in the Philippines, because in Vancouver, and pretty much anywhere in Canada, there are not a lot of great climbing trees. Mostly evergreen trees - very uncomfortable to climb. When I was in the Philippines, I was suddenly surrounded by these trees that were extraordinarily climbable. I got really into tree climbing at that point. Now that I'm living in Hawaii, climbing trees couldn't be more easy if I were a monkey.

Where are your favorite places to shop? You know, I've never been a shopper. Before I had this job, I never had money. So I usually buy a new article of clothing once every three or four years. Everyone says if you want to go shopping, go to Robson Street. But I think that for more interesting shopping in Vancouver, there's a street called Granville, and Granville Street, once you pass out of the downtown core and head out toward the airport, crosses over West Broadway. At the intersection of Granville and West Broadway, up from that road, there is more-eclectic shopping, shops that are more local.

What are some other eclectic places? Gastown is one of the oldest areas of Vancouver. It is just west of Chinatown. There's a steam-powered clock down by the water, and there are artists who will sit on the street and paint, and you can buy their artwork. There are little art shops, souvenir shops, and that kind of thing. It's right near Canada Place. I would also go to Commercial Drive. You are going to notice a theme here that I have; my tastes are becoming very obvious and apparent, but there are lots of great, sort of hippie hideaways. Little organic coffee shops and organic Indonesian restaurants and things like that. I think Commercial Street has so much character, and, for me, if I were to go and hang out somewhere now, I could totally still hang out on Commercial Street and assume that I wouldn't get bothered too much, because the people there are all really low-key and very cool. There was a restaurant, just about two blocks down from First Street, on Commercial Drive, and I don't know if it was Indonesian or African or what it was, but I used to go there for this one dish they served, which was basically mashed-up spinach with those Indian salty crackers, the flat type that they make. It was one of my favorite meals.

I know you had to watch what you spent when you were living in Vancouver. But where would you head for dinner now? There is this really amazing, amazing restaurant in the West End that overlooks English Bay and is right on the water. It is slightly more pricey, and all its food is from one of the neighboring Gulf islands. Every single thing they serve in that restaurant, the Raincity Grill, is wonderful. The food is impeccable, and the service is really great. You want to be there at either sunup or sundown. I don't think they are open at sunup. Dusk is the time to go there. It is so stunning. The sun sets over the water, right in front of the restaurant. I have been to the Creek Restaurant [now the Dockside Restaurant]. It's probably one of the most high-end restaurants I've been to in Vancouver. I went there, actually, before Lost, on a sort of special night one time with a guy. The Creek was on Granville Island, and the food was pretty incredible. The restaurant used to have a really great cigar bar, if you happened to be a cigar smoker. It had Cohibas and any other sort of international cigar that you could dream up for sale. There was this very old-fashioned gentleman's lounge, where you could go in and drink whiskey and smoke cigars. That's one of the beauties of Canada. Cuban cigars are totally legal there. I was a cigar smoker for eight years, believe it or not. And my favorite cigar always was a Cohiba.

Is there any place where the setting is as good as the food - and the smoke? The Sandbar on Granville Island is amazing. It is such a beautiful restaurant, and it is very West Coast. They serve amazing seafood there, salmon and calamari and different things that they catch locally. The view is of the bay in Vancouver, so you can overlook the city as well as the ocean. Granville Island is also the place to go if you want to see an outdoor theater play or an indoor theater play, or if you want to go and see live music, or if you want to go and check out galleries or check out the art scene in Vancouver.

Do you have any good stories from your days as a waitress at Earls? One time, Clint Eastwood came in, and I served him at the restaurant, which was kind of cool. Goldie Hawn and Kurt Russell came into that same restaurant when I was working there. I wasn't specifically waiting on Clint Eastwood, but I was a bartender for a few years as well. He had just had a house burn down that his former girlfriend and their daughter were leasing in Vancouver, and that night, they took their daughter there for dinner. You would assume it was because they didn't have anywhere else to go for dinner. They didn't have a home to be in, so they came to our restaurant. I felt that, as an ironic, cheer-you-up joke, I would do a fire trick for him. I did this trick with black Sambuca where I pour a shot of black Sambuca into my mouth, tip my head back, open my mouth, set the Sambuca on fire, and then pour cinnamon over the fire - it basically looks like I'm breathing flames like a dragon. That was my attempt to cheer him up and make their experience of having their house burn down a little bit less awful. I'm sure it didn't help at all. They were probably like, "Oh my goodness, leave us alone." I was very impressed with him. He was very kind and very sweet and said that he liked it and thanked me for doing it. He was very cordial; he was a nice man. He seemed very natural and down-to-earth.



She Said …
Where Evangeline Lilly loses herself in Vancouver

Lodging
Opus Hotel, very expensive, (604) 642-6787, www.opushotel.com

Dining
The Naam Restaurant, vegetarian, inexpensive, (604) 738-7151, www.thenaam.com
Calhoun's Bakery Café and Catering, casual, inexpensive, (604) 737-7062, www.calhouns.bc.ca
Dockside Restaurant, casual, moderate to expensive, (604) 685-7070, www.docksidebrewing.com
Earls, casual, inexpensive, (604) 734-5995, www.earls.ca
Raincity Grill, eclectic, moderate to expensive, (604) 685-7337, www.raincitygrill.com
The Sandbar, seafood/fusion, moderate to expensive, (604) 669-9030, www.mysandbar.com

Attractions
Stanley Park, (604) 257-8400, www.city.vancouver.bc.ca/Parks/parks/stanley
Vancouver Art Gallery, (604) 662-4719, www.vanartgallery.bc.ca
Vancouver Aquarium Marine Science Centre, (604) 659-3474, www.vanaqua.org
Whistler Blackcomb Ski Resort, (604) 904-8134, www.whistlerblackcomb.com

Explore
Commercial Drive, www.thedrive.ca
Gastown, www.seegastown.com
Granville Island, www.granvilleisland.com
Granville Street, www.granvillestreet.com
Robson Street, www.robsonstreet.ca
Tofino, British Columbia, tofino.travel.bc.ca
Vancouver Island, www.vancouverisland.com
Victoria, British Columbia, www.tourismvictoria.com



We Said …
Where we lose ourselves in Vancouver

Lodging
Hotel LeSoleil, moderate, (604) 632-3000, www.hotellesoleil.com. Everyone should enjoy this posh, pampering hotel, but it offers a little something extra for the ladies: the Elle Suite, which plies female business travelers with amenities like bath salts for the soaker tubs, low-calorie minibar snacks, and beefed-up security.
The Sylvia Hotel, inexpensive, (604) 681-9321, www.sylviahotel.com. The rooms may be somewhat sparse, but the building is a historic one, dating back to 1912. More important, it straddles beautiful English Bay and is surrounded by Stanley Park, so the location is ideal. Tip: Just before dusk, head to the bar, order a blueberry martini, and watch the sun go down over the bay. 

Dining
Dundarave Fish Market, moderate, (604) 922-1155, www.dundaravefishmarket.com. You're on the sea, so why not enjoy its bounty? Two of our favorites at this cozy café are the crab cakes and the fish and chips; you can also select your seafood straight from the display case and have the chefs prepare it to your liking.
The Red Onion, inexpensive, (604) 263-0833. We love a good diner, and so, apparently, do a lot of Vancouverites, who flock here for some of the best burgers and hot dogs in town. And did we mention the yummy fries with white dill sauce (an extra buck or two but worth every penny)?

Sights
BC Place Stadium, (604) 669-2300, www.bcplacestadium.com. The home of the Canadian Football League’s B.C. Lions and the intended site of the opening and closing ceremonies of the 2010 Olympics. In January, a vicious winter storm ripped a gaping hole in the Teflon dome, but now, fully restored, the stadium is once again ready for some football (the season runs July through November) as well as for concerts and other major events held there throughout the year.
Museum of Anthropology at the University of British Columbia, (604) 822-5087, www.moa.ubc.ca. Sometimes you can judge a museum by its shop, and the ceramics, glassware, and other goodies at the MOA’s gift store do indeed hint at the endless wonders that make up one of the largest collections anywhere of Pacific Northwest art and archaeology. Particularly noteworthy is the assortment of towering totem poles, not to mention the museum’s own architecture and awesome views.




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ISSUE: May 15, 2007
American Way Cover - 5/15/2007