Vancouver | Granville Island | Eric McCormack | Burrard Street Bridge

Leaving Will, With Grace

by Mark Seal
Now that his hit show is leaving the air, Eric McCormack should have more time to spend in his beloved Vancouver.
After eight seasons, five Golden Globe nominations, and an Emmy for Outstanding Lead Actor in a Comedy Series, Eric McCormack is saying farewell to Will Truman, the funny, foppish foil to Debra Messing in the hit series Will & Grace. The classically trained actor now has time to reflect, looking beyond the fictional New York apartment where he roamed on W&G and back to where it all began - not in his hometown of Toronto, but across Canada, in Vancouver.

"I lived in Toronto until I was 30, but in 1992, I flew west to Vancouver to visit a friend and to see what the work situation was like - and I never left," he recalls. "I was sleeping on a buddy's couch. And within a few months, I was a regular on a series and I had done three movies of the week. Vancouver was very fertile ground at the time, particularly for American movies of the week and a lot of Stephen J. Cannell series. It was sort of a banner year for me, and from there I went to L.A. But Vancouver, from then on, sort of became my home away from home."

In Vancouver, McCormack appeared onstage and landed his first television films and series - including his role as Colonel Clay Mosby on Lonesome Dove: The Series - all of which set the stage for his roaring run on Will & Grace. Now, he, his wife, Janet, and their three-and-a-half-year-old son, Finnigan, are based in L.A., where ­McCormack and his wife are developing various scripts and projects. This April, McCormack will star in a feature film called The Sisters, a modern interpretation of Anton Chekhov's renowned play The Three Sisters. This summer, McCormack will star in the off-Broadway play Some Girls, written by Neil Labute. The play begins previews on May 17 at the Lucille Lortel Theatre.

But every chance McCormack gets, he heads to the city where it all began. Here's a sojourn into the woody and western Canadian city where his career was born.

Tell us about your introduction to Vancouver. There's an incredible fireworks competition every year in Vancouver, usually starting during the first weekend in August. It's an international thing. It's three different countries every year, and they each have a special night where they put on, like, a 20-minute fireworks show. So over the course of a two-week period, you'll have four different fireworks nights. My wife and I met in Calgary, where I was shooting Lonesome Dove. The first time we came to Vancouver together, I had a small apartment downtown, and the cab was coming over the Burrard Street Bridge, and he had to stop. He couldn't go any farther because the traffic was blocked off for the fireworks. So we had to walk, with our luggage, a long way from the Burrard Street Bridge to my little apartment. But we were walking through the hundreds and hundreds of people who were lined up on the hills watching the fireworks. And the only people moving were my wife and me, and it was like we were the king and queen, and everyone else was on bended knee, and we were just walking through the crowd with the fireworks going off. It was a pretty cool way to say hello to the city.

What should you know before you go? The thing about Vancouver is that no one in the rest of Canada really knows about it; they don't talk about it. No one in Vancouver wants the rest of Canada to come there. It's the best-kept secret - there's no winter. I mean, I arrived on February 2, and people were in T-shirts. It was just stunning. And the Pacific Ocean is a big part of the city. It's not like L.A., where the Pacific Ocean is only really part of Santa Monica. In Vancouver, the ocean is part of the whole city.

Give us the lay of the land. The layout of Vancouver, I think, is unique to any other North American city. Like Manhattan, it's surrounded by water. But then that water is not surrounded by New Jersey; it's surrounded by mountains. The vistas are incredible. Stanley Park is larger than Central Park in New York. It is central to all of Vancouver. You can literally disappear in Stanley Park in a way that you can't in Central Park, because it's not so wide. If you were in the middle of it, you would think you're in Alaska.­ It's surrounded by the ocean, with bridges on all sides. It's called the Sea Wall - you can actually get a bike or Rollerblades and go around the entire thing. It would take about an hour and a half; it's a huge chunk of land. Downtown is directly connected to it, and the mountains surround all of that.

What is your base in Vancouver? There's something new called the Opus Hotel, which is a fun hotel to go have a drink at, but I haven't stayed in a room there. When we were renovating, we stayed at a really cozy place called the Wedgewood Hotel. They have a beautiful restaurant in the lobby - very cozy. We've had a condo in Kitsilano since '96, which is our little secret hideaway. It's a lot of old, big houses, many of which have been converted into what they call "stratas" - a big house that's been turned into four condos, and they are completely their own landlords. So it's a lot of young people in the neighborhood, a lot of first-time home owners, a lot of great dog-walking streets. Big, old trees. Kitsilano doesn't feel like a suburb in any way; it feels like a part of the city - it's across the bridge from downtown - and with the exception of Broadway and Fourth, it's mostly residential. It's on an angle, almost sort of like San Francisco, so from a lot of places you have great views of the ocean or of downtown. There are a lot of good little cafés - Sophie's, for instance, is in Kitsilano. People tend to really live in their neighborhood.

Where would you start your day? Sophie's Cosmic Café. Sophie's has a great ham-and-Cheddar omelet. The walls are covered with weird old photos and weird toys and games from the '50s. Sophie herself is always running around with a pot of coffee. She's like a Bette Midler character. She loves her job and loves kids, and there's a big toy box there for kids to play in while they are waiting for their breakfasts to come. It's got a real homey feel.

Who's the first person you call when you get back to Vancouver? Helga. She and I have been friends since high school in Toronto. A lot of weird people came out of my high school. Helga and I and David Furnish, who is Elton John's partner, were in theater class together. Helga and I went together to David and Elton's wedding just before Christmas, in London. We've stayed close to him. She and I have been friends for 27 years, and she ended up going to Vancouver before I did. When I got there we sort of reconnected, and she now lives four doors down from our place. She's kind of a Kramer. She's the one who will burst in at any moment for a cup of coffee. She takes care of our place when we're away. And then we'll go over to Gabby and Gerry's. Gabby was in my theater-school class in 1982, and we'll go to their place for a barbecue. It's like our family - our unusual family.

But it's all about the great outdoors, right? On the other side, from Stanley Park, if you were looking across to Kitsilano, you would see a series of beaches. They are all beautiful, and they are all quite swimmable in the summertime. I think probably the prettiest is Locarno Beach. It's just volleyball nets and an incredible view of the mountains and of downtown. There's a weird period of time, usually in the summer, where tides can come out for what seems like a mile, and the sand becomes very soft and mucky. It's just amazing to run around there in your bathing suit, and it feels like you're walking on water. It's a really beautiful place. Particularly when the tide is out, because we take our dogs there when we are in Vancouver for longer stretches of time. To run around in the muck with our dogs and our son is probably my happiest time.

Where do you send friends for lunch? There's a place called Market Grill, which has the best burgers in town. That's on Granville Island, and that's my favorite lunch. It's a booth - literally like a burger booth. Really fresh burgers and fries. It has a great salmon burger and a great chicken-teriyaki burger. And it's right on the water.

How would you spend an afternoon? The view from the Burrard Street Bridge is just incredible - the view of the ocean, and the mountains, and of downtown, of Kitsilano, of Granville Island. One of my favorite things is going over the Burrard Street Bridge, particularly on a bicycle. Granville Island is a little island underneath the Granville Street Bridge. It's where a lot of personal boats are docked. There are places for kids to play, restaurants, and a big fresh market - a farmers' market. There are three different bridges going into downtown; Granville Island is a great place to see all of them. Next would be South Granville, which is Granville Street, from probably Third Avenue to Fifteenth Avenue. It's 12 blocks of really interesting art galleries and shopping and restaurants. There's a great shop called Liberty that has hip home furnishings. We have a great table from Liberty. And there's a great men's store on Broadway called Mark James.

What don't people know about the city? There's a real artistic community in Vancouver, and the city is really connected to the outdoors. It's not a town where you're stuck inside for two-thirds of the year. There's a lot of rain, but it's not a freezing-cold, snowed-in winter town, so what a lot of the local artists are painting is the beauty that they've grown up around. Another thing that people are into, but I don't do it much, is the skiing. There are several mountains - Whistler being the most popular for skiing. There's tremendous life outside the city. But when I'm there, I'm usually there for such a short time that I live downtown, I live in Kitsilano, I live in Granville Island.

Where are you at cocktail hour? There's a brewery right on Granville Island called Granville Island Brewing, and they make a lager and a pale ale that are both great. But my favorite drink in town is very specific - the mojito - at a bar in Yaletown called George. It's fresh mint. It's beautiful; I've never had such a good mojito as the one at George. I don't know what their secret is. And by the fourth mojito I usually forget to ask. I'm usually under the table. George's is a really hip little bar that doesn't feel so dark and smoky. It's a really great little social place.

You spent five years at the Stratford Shakespeare Festival and performed in regional theaters across Canada. Where did you get your start in Vancouver theater? I played Dracula at the Arts Club Theatre in 1996. It's beautiful. The Arts Club actually has two different theaters. There's one on Granville called the Stanley, and the other one is actually on Granville Island. That was always the fun of doing the show: Every night, I'd have to take a little trip down to Granville Island. The Arts Club bar is right next door - it's a great place to have a beer after the show.

How about dinner? Cru is pretty new. A buddy of mine was a waiter there for a while. Great little meals, like macaroni and cheese, and an amazing shortbread. Quattro is great Italian, and we always have great service there. Glowbal is in Yaletown, which is sort of the hip, up-and-coming neighborhood. Vij's is sort of what they call "new Indian," not all the traditional curries and stuff. It's more family recipes. And there are no reservations at Vij's. You just have to line up and wait for it. You always see Vij. He's a young, handsome guy. I think he's proud to bring some recipes to some people who wouldn't traditionally get Indian takeout.

Do you have a secret place? Certainly tourists wouldn't know about this place - it's called Bin 941. It's on Davie Street, and when my friend Peter and I come from L.A., we always have to go to the Bin, as we call it. Tiny, tiny little place; the bar has enough room for about four people, and eating, you can seat maybe 20. But the food is great - it's prepared in a little kitchen that everybody can see. Go there for a glass of wine and some tapas, if you can sneak in.

What's one spectacular memory of the city? My wife and I got married on a boat with about 70 people on it. We sailed from Granville Island out into English Bay, in between downtown and Kitsilano, and right into the Pacific Ocean. As we were coming back in, there were hundreds and hundreds of people on the beach cheering and there were balloons. And we thought, This is amazing, and on our wedding day. What is this? And my brother turned to me and said, "You know, only you would choose to get married on Gay Pride Day."

He Said…
Eric McCormack's secret (and not-so-secret) hideaways in Vancouver


LODGING
Opus Hotel,
very expensive, (604) 642-6787
Wedgewood Hotel, very expensive, (604) 689-7777

DINING
Bin 941,
moderate, (604) 683-1246
Cru, moderate, (604) 677-4111
Glowbal Grill and Satay Bar, moderate to expensive,
(604) 602-0835
Market Grill, inexpensive, (604) 689-1918
Quattro, moderate to expensive, (604) 734-4444
Sophie's Cosmic Café, inexpensive, (604) 732-6810
Vij's, moderate, (604) 736-6664

NIGHTLIFE
Arts Club Theatre Backstage Lounge,
(604) 687-1354
Arts Club Theatre Company, (604) 687-1644
George, (604) 628-5555
Granville Island Brewing, (604) 687-2739

SHOPPING
Liberty,
(604) 682-7499
Mark James, (604) 734-2381

ATTRACTIONS
Locarno Beach,
www.city.vancouver.bc.ca/parks/rec/beaches/locarno.htm

We Said… Our secret (and not-so-secret) hideaways in Vancouver

LODGING
Granville Island Hotel,
moderate, (604) 683-7373. While worth every penny, this chic retreat goes for slightly more than our bargain-basement budget usually allows - but it's just so darn romantic, we can't help ourselves. We're suckers for its marble floors, dreamy waterfront settings, and plush soaker tubs. The boys like the on-site brewery too.
YWCA of Vancouver, inexpensive, (604) 895-5830. We know, we know; we can't believe we're recommending a YWCA either. But the reviews of this place were so good - TripAdvisor subscribers rank it 14th out of 110 area hotels, just below a prestigious upscale brand with a number in its name - we just couldn't ignore it. Fans seem to love everything about it, from its entertainment-district locale to guests' access to one of the best gyms in town.

DINING
Havana,
moderate, (604) 253-9119. A trip to Havana is a true cultural experience. Not only are there exotic Nuevo Latino dishes like chorizo and clam linguine, but there's an art gallery and a theater out back. Unfortunately, once our tummies are full and we're kicking back enjoying the skyline and one of Havana's Cuban-cigar selections out on the all-weather patio, we have a hard time getting back there.
Jade Dynasty, inexpensive to moderate, (604) 683-8816. Folks flock to this surprisingly cozy Chinatown spot for helpings of things like spinach with snow fungus and water-chestnut cake, but we opt for the dim sum to go. Why? It makes an ideal picnic lunch at nearby Stanley Park.

ATTRACTIONS
Capilano Suspension Bridge, (604) 985-7474. This wire-cable overpass, the longest and highest suspended footbridge in the world, was once made of hemp rope and cedar planks. Consider that as you take that 450-foot walk across, teetering 230 feet above the Capilano River. Oh, and if heights aren’t your thing, just enjoy the lush rainforest surrounds.
Dr. Sun Yat-Sen Classical Chinese Garden, (604) 662-3207. The first full-size Chinese garden ever conceived outside the Asian territory, this fertile Shangri-la is further proof of Vancouver’s strong multicultural meld.

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ISSUE: May 1, 2006
American Way Cover - 5/1/2006