Venice | Thomas Jefferson
The French Connection
by
Les DalyJust a few minutes farther down the track from Montpellier is the
canal-laced 17th-century fishing village of Sète. Don't expect
Venice, but the canals are busy with small craft and lined with
pastel buildings and interesting shops selling all kinds of boating
gear and hardware. Here, you may escort your dinner of fresh
oysters and sea bass as they are delivered by the incoming
fishermen to the score of restaurants lined up along the quay. A
fragrant open market with a variety of regional products like
olives and herb-coated sausage, country terrines, and tiny
crust-roasted legs of lamb is a rustic pique-nique treasury
before a trip to the nearby sandy beaches. However, like most
French seaside resorts, Sète is probably best sidestepped in July
and August. In that period, instead, consider a slow drive from
Montpellier through the less-congested Languedoc area, which is
studded with picturesque fortified castles, now time-worn, and on
to Carcassone or Albi, both of which are accessible by car or
train.
The Languedoc gave the world the sumptuous dish known as cassoulet
- white beans, preserved goose or duck, pork, lamb, sausage, maybe
a partridge in season, all cooked together slowly until the aroma
and flavor can wait no longer - and they now produce about
one-third of all French wine. Some of it, like Corbières or
Minérvois, is of increasingly good quality. A sweet dessert muscat
wine from here, called Frontignan, was a favorite of Thomas
Jefferson.
And speaking of wine, you can be whisked away to Bordeaux in about
four hours by catching one of the seven daily trains from CDG. From
there, the region's storied vineyards - St. Emilion, Pauillac,
Médoc, Sauternes, to name only a few much-admired appellations -
are just a short drive away.
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