Winston Churchill | Alexandra de Nonancourt | Christian Pol-Roger | Knights of Malta

Laurent-Perrier's tête de cuvée is named after this age of French magnificence. It's bottled in a replica of the flasks used in the 17th century. In its rosé version, Grand Siècle is the rarest wine in the Laurent-Perrier portfolio, which includes several other superb champagnes as well. This one was originally created as a surprise wedding gift for the owner's eldest daughter, Alexandra de Nonancourt. It's aged on the lees for nine years, giving it amazing depth, complexity, and character. This is an extraordinarily rich sparkling wine - among the very best in the world.

POL ROGER 1995 BRUT CHARDONNAY ($80)

The first bottle of Pol Roger ever exported went to England in 1876, and the Britons fell in love at first gulp. In fact, Winston Churchill was such a fan of this brand that he named his favorite racehorse Pol Roger. The champagne house returned the tribute, posthumously,
by naming one of their wines Cuvée Sir Winston Churchill.

Not long ago I sat down with Christian Pol-Roger (the family name is hyphenated although the brand name is not) over a meal during which we drank only his wines (not such hard duty). He is suave, charming, and elegant without being stuffy. Like the man, the Pol Roger wines are also sophisticated and refined. The 1995 Brut Chardonnay is racy and crisp with a lovely streak of pure fruit; it is delicious and perfectly balanced.

LANSON 1988 NOBLE CUVÉE BRUT ($100)

Lanson may not be the first name that pops to mind when champagne is mentioned, but it's a bubbly that's well worth getting to know. Founded in 1760, this is actually among the oldest houses in the Champagne region. One of the original owners was a member of the Knights of Malta, a fraternal and military order dating back to the 11th century, which explains why the Maltese Cross is featured prominently in the Lanson logo.