Bluish flickers of light emanate from the windows of city apartment buildings and suburban homes. Cheers and groans echo through streets, where passersby stand crowding the doorways and windows of local bars. Cooks and waiters steal precious few moments at work to huddle in front of a 19-inch TV in the kitchen, hoping to catch a glimpse of the perfect give-and-go, a sublime pass, or maybe even - dare to dream - an elusive championship-winning goal.

Sounds like the Super Bowl, right? Or maybe the World Series? It does. Now imagine those scenes happening all over the world. That's why - sorry, Super Bowl; no offense intended, World Series - the World Cup is the be-all and end-all spectator event. This summer, 32 teams from around the globe descend upon 12 host cities throughout Germany to vie for the most coveted of soccer's cups. So, if you find yourself traveling in Germany between June 9 and July 9, congratulations: You're going to be at the 2006 World Cup.

No tickets, you say? Irrelevant. Not interested? Beside the point. Whether or not you're at the stadiums, and even if you wouldn't know a soccer ball if one coldcocked you mid-bratwurst, the atmosphere of the World Cup is not only unavoidable - it's rather contagious.


WHAT TO EXPECT
Even lifelong soccer fans attending their first World Cup are knocked for a loop by the enormousness of the event and its tendency to force life's little details - work, sleep, bathing - onto the back burner. Just ask sports agent and Frankfurt resident Brian Eylert about the 1974 World Cup, which was hosted, and won, by West Germany. "I had tickets to the opening game," laughs Eylert. "So we had to postpone our wedding for a month."

Eylert, whose clients include German soccer legend Lothar Matthäus, also remembers the 1990 World Cup, which Germany won. "It was absolute pandemonium," he recalls. "All night in the streets, people going around in cars honking horns endlessly. It was a big celebration and it seemed to go on forever."

This year's tournament should be exceptionally well attended. Germany is easily accessible to European residents who, by hook or by crook, will take planes, trains, and automobiles to the tourney whether or not they have tickets. It's also a comfortable place for Americans to travel - English is spoken virtually everywhere, and flights are not as lengthy and costly as they were for the 2002 World Cup in Japan and South Korea and as they will be for the 2010 World Cup in South Africa. For many, this is the tournament to attend.

PLANNING YOUR TRIP
Few people know more about planning a trip to the World Cup than Antonio Paz, founder and president of Soccer Travel, a travel agency based in Miami. Opened in 1980, Paz's agency now handles travel arrangements for the U.S. Soccer Federation, among other distinguished clients, and has a year-round travel business offering lodging, tickets, and hospitality services for soccer events all over the world.

From tickets in the rafters and budget hotel rooms to up-close-and-personal seats and limo service to the game, excursions to European castles, and restaurant recommendations, Paz prides himself on customer satisfaction.

"This is all we do, so we can't afford to screw it up," Paz laughs. "Our track record is 100 percent." The key to his success is shockingly simple: "We don't sell what we don't have."

If only that were true of everyone. If you're reading this and you don't have tickets yet, you have your work cut out for you. The U.S. Soccer Federation announced on January 17 that it had sold out of its ticket allocation for fans hoping to see the Americans take to the field. With the demand for tickets far exceeding supply, it's a seller's market - and some of those sellers are offering tickets that they have yet to secure. Online ticket brokers and package agents should be approached with care.

"Can you get a USA-Italy ticket in April? Yes," says Paz. "[But] you're going to pay two to three times above face value." Group stage tickets range in price from 35 euros to 100 euros.

As with all major sporting events, an increasingly high percentage of tickets go to corporate sponsors, who pass the tickets to their employees, some of whom could care less about attending or simply don't have the time or money to make the trip. Many of these tickets have been turning up online on sites like eBay for months. If you're searching for tickets, keep the following in mind:

-FIFA, the international governing body for soccer, is using RFID (radio frequency identification) microchip technology on tickets in an effort to cut down on the black-market sales, as well as to improve security. Spot checks of IDs will be conducted at the stadiums. Be sure to ask anyone selling tickets how they plan to deal with this. FIFA announced it will create an Internet ticket portal for the legal exchange of tickets at face value only.

-Luxury hotels often go out of their way to set aside tickets for hotel guests. Of course, there are no guarantees, and nothing you find late in the game will be cheap, but if you're determined to go, sometimes cozying up to the hotel staff can be quite helpful.

-Do your homework, ask questions, and get a guarantee. "There's a lot of fraud in travel," Paz warns. "The client or consumer has to be on top of things." How long have they been in business? What kind of guarantee does the company provide? How many specifics can the agents provide? If they guarantee you'll have a room, can they tell you the name of your hotel and the name of the reservation contact there? If not, consider looking elsewhere.

Are last-minute tickets a pipe dream? Yes and no. Your chances are much better if money's not an object. Just exercise caution and some common sense.

GETTING THERE
So you have tickets. Or, you're just deciding to fly over and take it all in. Here's what you need to know:

-Many of the die-hard fans come for the first stage of the tournament to be assured of seeing their teams play and will go home once their teams are eliminated. If you want to just take in the atmosphere and you don't care who's playing, show up after June 23, the end of the first round of play. Those who plan ahead usually do so for the first stage of the tournament, when they know who's playing and where.

-Between Deutsche Bahn, the rail system, and the autobahns, Germany's notoriously speedy highways, transportation is easily and efficiently manageable. Just plan ahead. The travel section of FIFA's World Cup site has route planners and information on all transportation options.

WHERE TO STAY
German cities are expanding, and the tourist infrastructure is top-notch. But lodging will still be tight. Here's how to rest a bit easier:

-Take advantage of FIFA. Specifically, their World Cup Accommodation Services (WCAS). With over 550 hotels and 50,000 rooms available throughout Germany, and negotiated rates that will not be subject to price gouging the closer you get to the tournament, the WCAS is worth a try. The hotel info shows the distances to airports, stadiums, and the city center, in addition to listing the usual amenities. According to Verena von Gehlsen, spokesperson for FIFA WCAS, the negotiated rates are based on June to July 2003 prices and are adjusted two percent per year for inflation. "I think everyone will get a room," von Gehlsen says, adding: "Book early for the best chance to be close to the stadium."

-Staying on the outskirts of, or completely outside, the host cities is a very viable alternative considering the excellent public transportation available throughout Germany. "We've got more rooms in Heidelberg than FIFA does," says Paz, who played youth soccer in what is considered to be one of Germany's most beautiful towns. "We can get to six of the stadiums within three hours or less and it's a cool, neat little town." Although you'll still likely run into crowding, the scene on average should be cheaper and mellower (except when Germany plays, that is).

-Moving from city to city to follow teams and games can morph from exhilarating to exhausting in a skinny minute. Traveling to several cities increases the need for multiple reservations and raises the stress level. Another option is to do what the soccer teams do during the course of the tournament: Pick a home base and travel from there. Some smaller hotels and hostels offer reduced rates if you stay more than, say, five nights.

-There are a number of services offering rooms and apartments throughout Germany. In particular, Soccerphile.com has a comprehensive list of hostels and other places renting rooms, and the ever-popular Craigslist.org includes sites for host cities Berlin, Munich, and Frankfurt, where individuals list rooms and apartments for rent.

HOW TO ENJOY WORLD CUP GAMES (Tickets optional)
If you have tickets already, congratulations! This ranks right up there with a Golden Ticket for a tour of Willy Wonka's chocolate factory. Even so, keep the following in mind:

-Allow for extra travel time (and then some ... and then some more) to get to the game. ID checks, searches, and long lines can make the minutes add up fast, and no one wants to worry about missing that whistle. And don't forget: The scene outside the stadium can be as much fun as what's going on inside. You won't be bored.

-Do yourself and those waiting in line ­behind you a favor and don't try to bring anything into the stadium that will be ­confiscated. Bottles, cans, alcohol - all are game-day no-nos.

-Use public transportation. Not only is Germany's public transport excellent - and many lines have been upgraded in anticipation of the tournament - but travel to the stadium on game day is free with your ticket. Again, be ready for crowds and check your tickets for specific details. If driving, plan your route ahead of time and look for alternate routes as well.

-Skip that last cup of coffee … or several pints of beer. No time-outs is one of many reasons soccer is so enjoyable to watch in person and all the more reason to watch with an empty bladder. You've made it this far; do you really want to miss a crucial call because nature's call can no longer be ignored? Save your imbibing for after the game. Do the math: If you paid 600 euros for a ticket to the 90-minute final, a 15-minute trip to the bathroom will cost you about 100 euros. And, of course, the cost of missing a goal cannot be calculated.

If you have not yet scored tickets to the greatest sporting show on earth, fear not. Making the most of the world's biggest sporting event doesn't require being at the stadium.

-Want to watch Italy's Azzuri with a predominantly Italian crowd? Looking to enjoy a proper pint while Becks lights up the pitch for England? With substantial immigrant populations throughout Germany, you'll have many options for watching with the international crowd of your liking.

-"If you want to soak up the atmosphere, there's probably more atmosphere outside the stadium than inside," says U.S. National Team defender Steve Cherundolo, who is in his eighth season with Germany's Hannover 96. He's right: Cities are offering numerous outdoor wide-screen viewing opportunities, along with beer gardens. "I would actually rather watch the game there, but hopefully I'll be playing," Cherundolo laughs.

Check the tourism sites of the individual host cities to find out what outdoor screens and activities will be provided. Or just follow the crowds.

-Student districts are often some of the liveliest and least expensive areas in which to watch games. Cologne resident Werner Schmitz of Deutsche Welle Radio agrees: "Everything on Zuelpicher Strasse (the student quarter) comes recommended," he says, "although the places may be packed hours before the referee blows the whistle."

-Stay at home - or, rather, at the hotel. Many hotels often set up screens in their lobbies and conference rooms, in addition to viewing opportunities in their restaurants and bars. This can also cut down on travel and chaos for those who want a more mellow viewing experience.

TIME OUT(What to do between games)
Between matches, don't forget to get away from the TV or stadium and emerge from the dark, smoky bars to take a look around the rest of Germany. "I would recommend people really soak up the culture," says U.S. National Team defender Gregg Berhalter, who plays professionally with Germany's Energie Cottbus, "and there's no better time than summer to appreciate it."

-Though the host cities themselves offer plenty to do, a trip away from the center of things can be refreshing. Staying in Munich? Don't forget nearby Augsburg. Two of Berhalter's favorites are Weimar and Dresden. "It's such a beautiful city," Berhalter says of Dresden, which celebrates its 800th anniversary this year. Germany's natural attractions - the canals of Spreewald or the Thuringian forest - provide ample opportunities for hikes and relaxing drives. A longtime favorite route is Germany's "Romantic Road," which runs from Wurtzburg (near host city Frankfurt) south past Munich.

-Brush up on your German while listening to the bar-stool analysts watching the games. The Goethe-Institut offers language courses in Berlin, Dusseldorf, Frankfurt, Hamburg, and Munich, revolving around the World Cup tournament.

-Eat, drink, and be (responsibly) merry. Says Schmitz: "The main advice is be peaceful, have a drink or 12, but don't smash things and/or people; don't spoil it for yourself and for everybody else." Cherundolo recommends adopting the slower-paced ­European frame of mind, where "people take more time to sit down, have a cup of coffee, and relax and enjoy each other's company." Paz also values the local fare: "Germany has the best and most diverse breads in the world," he enthuses. "I love their potatoes, and I love their beers. But I'm not going to check my cholesterol level until July 15!"