American Way Cover - 11/15/2001

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YOUNTVILLE | massage | Napa | Miramonte Restaurant

Inside Napa Valley

by Alan Goldfarb
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Across the road is sterling vineyards, which has suffered through ownership changes over the last two decades and whose wines - save for its ultrasmooth Three Palms Merlot - have faltered a bit as a result. The feature of this hilltop Greek-style winery is its tram. For $6, it carries you to the top of the valley for some of the perfect panoramas of the wine country.

WHERE THE VINTNERS WINE AND DINE
The restaurant scene has shifted south to Yountville and the city of Napa, where there is a plethora of excellent restaurants, but those in the know realize that the places where the vintners eat are always best.

The French Laundry is the finest restaurant in Napa Valley, but just try to get a last-minute table via phone. The best bet is to go for breakfast or lunch to one of the other Yountville spots such as Gordon's Cafe and Wine Bar, Mustards Grill, Bouchon, or Brix. After dining, walk over to the Laundry and cajole your way into a reservation.

The city of Napa is where you'll find the vintner's favorite Bistro Don Giovanni, as well as Celadon and its sister Cole's Chop House, and the far-off-the-beaten-path Foothill Café.

In the what's new department, at press time, restaurant designer Pat Kuleto and chef/owner Todd Humphries were planning to open a spot called Martini house on Spring Street in St. Helena, while in June, Cindy Pawlcyn, who opened Mustards Grill, had resurrected Miramonte Restaurant and Café on Railroad Avenue, also in St. Helena.

SPA-RIFFIC
To soothe you after all that wining and dining, there are spas galore in Calistoga, and in a couple of new spots as well.

Villagio Inn & Spa in Yountville features faux-Roman ruins and a spa with a small workout facility, massage rooms, and sauna. Facials, aromatherapy, and four different types of massage - including a California deep-tissue sports massage - are available. There are also salt-glow body scrubs, a Vichy shower, and an Arctic algae body wrap.

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