The city's allure nailed me the first time I walked across the Munster Bridge, which links the two parts of Zurich's Old Town. Everywhere I looked, I saw postcard-worthy vistas. First, the old churches, gently lit in the fading evening light; then, the simple three- and four-story medieval buildings in the Old Town that are separated by cobbled lanes; and finally, the rushing glory of the Limmat River, which leads to Lake Zurich and the Alps beyond. Few cities have such a glorious setting. But there was more than just a historic backdrop - movement and action were everywhere.

This, I thought, is the perfect city: true to its past, quite alive today, and sparkling with invitation.

Zurich is Europe's little secret, often visited for a day or two by those en route to nearby ski resorts and mountain retreats. But it's rewarding as a destination on its own and is perfect as a base for exploring the nearby mountains and lakes. I found lots of little human (and canine) touches - including the city's more than 1,200 water fountains, many of which are fed with fresh springwater and most of which are equipped with bowls at street level so that dogs can take a drink. Plenty of cities have rivers running through them, but few besides Zurich have built lidos along the water, used for swimming and sunbathing by day and transformed into open-air bars during the long summer nights. It is a tradition that goes back more than a century and still provides relief during the surprising midsummer heat.