Zurich | Paris | Europe | Alps | Limmat River | Food

Out Of The Blue

by Gregory Katz
Image about Zurich


Out of the Blue

You may think you know Zurich, the buttoned-down stronghold of the banking and insurance worlds, but you're in for a surprise.
. Photographs by Julia Baier.

Some places get pigeonholed. They change dramatically over time but are still saddled with a reputation that is no longer deserved. Such is the case with Zurich. Its image has long been one of a somber, sober, well-ordered city that is primarily a center for banking and insurance. In reality, it has evolved into a hedonistic place, bursting at the seams with things to do and to see, and is home to a frenzied club scene that rocks from night till dawn.

I had the stereotype of Zurich in mind when I went there to find out why a British firm - the Mercer Human Resource Consulting group - has for five years running named it the most desirable city in the world to live in. Why not Paris, Hong Kong, or San Francisco? I wondered. I thought the answer would be suitably mundane - say, a mixture of good health care, high wages, and the appeal of the famously clean streets.

I'm no stranger to European cities and their desirability. I've lived in Europe for over a decade, mainly because I love the way its cities are constructed. I miss America, particularly the baseball stadiums and the music and the wide open spaces, but I can't give up Europe's courtyards and town squares. I've been spoiled by places like Strasbourg and Prague. There is nothing so grand as to take a room in a city-center hotel and have hundreds of restaurants, shops, museums, and beautiful sights like rivers and cathedrals within a 15-minute walk. I don't need a car, never run out of things to do, and often sense that something surprising is just around the corner. Somehow, in spite of the 10-plus years I've been in Europe, I never realized that Zurich is the ideal place for people who delight in the style and ease of European cities. It is compact and perfectly­ proportioned, and almost everything I need is within strolling distance of my hotel room in the Old Town. The few places that are farther afield are quickly reached by the city's aging but easy-to-use streetcar system, which can actually be used for sightseeing as well. But more important than its convenience is Zurich's breathtaking beauty. In fact, I'm not sure those are strong-enough words. Stunning? Gorgeous? Nothing seems sufficient.

The city's allure nailed me the first time I walked across the Munster Bridge, which links the two parts of Zurich's Old Town. Everywhere I looked, I saw postcard-worthy vistas. First, the old churches, gently lit in the fading evening light; then, the simple three- and four-story medieval buildings in the Old Town that are separated by cobbled lanes; and finally, the rushing glory of the Limmat River, which leads to Lake Zurich and the Alps beyond. Few cities have such a glorious setting. But there was more than just a historic backdrop - movement and action were everywhere.

This, I thought, is the perfect city: true to its past, quite alive today, and sparkling with invitation.

Zurich is Europe's little secret, often visited for a day or two by those en route to nearby ski resorts and mountain retreats. But it's rewarding as a destination on its own and is perfect as a base for exploring the nearby mountains and lakes. I found lots of little human (and canine) touches - including the city's more than 1,200 water fountains, many of which are fed with fresh springwater and most of which are equipped with bowls at street level so that dogs can take a drink. Plenty of cities have rivers running through them, but few besides Zurich have built lidos along the water, used for swimming and sunbathing by day and transformed into open-air bars during the long summer nights. It is a tradition that goes back more than a century and still provides relief during the surprising midsummer heat.

The key to enjoying Zurich is to choose a hotel that is centrally located in or right next to the Old Town. A simple one will do nicely, though there are several swank and wonderful places to stay if a splurge is in order. Then revel in the fact that every type of urban pleasure the world has to offer is close by. Forget about fondue and yodeling - the food here is diverse and delicious, and the music scene is raucous, not pastoral, catering to the 24,000 university students who give Zurich its youthful flair. Even the Zoo Zürich is unconventional. Imaginative zookeepers have re-created a Masoala rain forest inside a domed building constructed in what was an empty pasture adjacent to the rest of the zoo, giving visitors a chance to experience the heat, vegetation, humidity, and wildlife of an actual rain forest. I found it exhilarating to step across the threshold and into a completely different environment, one in which I was able to see and hear and breathe the tropics while at the edge of the Alps. The moisture in the air was intoxicating. The waterfalls, the exuberant plants, and the sight of the lizards and birds transported me to a faraway place. And the rain forest restaurant - with a giant plate-glass window offering a Garden of Eden-like view of a tropical paradise - is, without a doubt, the most beautiful zoo restaurant I've ever seen.

My favorite part of town is the oldest part of the Old Town, where some of the buildings date back to the fourteenth century. It is a pleasure to see how cities were formed back then, around town squares and clock towers that must have seemed huge at the time but that by today's standards seem positively petite. Chain stores and international luxury houses have not yet discovered this part of town. It's a pedestrian zone filled with one-of-a-kind jewelry shops and galleries. The Old Town is the place to buy beautiful music boxes and lovely­ umbrellas printed with scenes from Renoir paintings, evoking the era of the impressionists.

And, oh, the delicious specialty-food stores in the Old Town. I couldn't help sampling the fare at Bodega Gorgot and Bodega Española, a Spanish bodega and restaurant set up in 1874 and stocked with fine rioja and excellent chorizo and calamari. I also couldn't resist the offerings at H. Schwarzenbach, an aromatic food emporium laden with spices, teas, coffee, meats, and wines that can match anything New York and Paris have to offer. The sweets department even offers handmade marzipan shaped like Snow White and the seven dwarfs - not to my taste, but I knew my daughter would love them, so I plunked down the necessary Swiss francs.

The Old Town is particularly moody at night, when the old-fashioned gaslights come on and the medieval streets are filled with modern-day revelers. The absence of harsh, modern anticrime lighting gives everything a mellow look. I enjoyed just wandering around and drifting back in time, stopping at a few places for red wine before I went home for the evening.

The Old Town is, thankfully, not entirely sanitized. This is the part of Zurich where eccentrics are welcome, including people like Frankie B., the grizzled proprietor of Coiffeur du Théatre, a hair salon where every customer is invited to share a beer and is given a chance to enjoy the hundreds of black-and-white rock-and-roll photos and other eclectic decorations. When I stopped in, a Buddy Guy video was playing, so the shop was filled with the sweet sound of Chicago blues. In the summertime, Frankie moves his operation to the street to escape the heat in his shop. He welcomes new customers but warned me to try to book appointments before noon, because the beer drinking takes its toll on him: "After that, the barber is drunk," he admitted. I checked my watch - it was 3:30 in the afternoon - and decided to move on without getting a trim.

At the far end of the Old Town is Zurich's truly great art museum, the Kunsthaus Zürich. I love paintings, but I've never been a big fan of museums. In fact, I've been to Paris dozens of times but have never gazed at the Mona Lisa - I just can't face the lines. So, for me, the Kunsthaus Zürich was perfect. This is the museum for people who don't like museums - it's set up to be enjoyed, not revered. I could see the art up close, without the crowds or the waiting time. Even on a busy weekend afternoon, I found myself alone here, in a room with Monet's oversize water-lily paintings exhibited in a strange but stunning juxtaposition with classical sculptures by Rodin. In adjoining rooms, I saw major works by Van Gogh, Picasso,­ Matisse, and Cézanne, which were easy to enjoy since I didn't have to face the throngs common to most museums. Surrealism, Dada, and modern art are represented, as well, as are the old masters; it was easy to become drenched in the images of a Europe gone by. And I was knocked out by the Edvard Munch collection - I knew him mainly from The Scream, which I've always found disorienting and painful, but some of his works at the Kunsthaus Zürich are filled with an almost psychedelic beauty and repose.

After being immersed in the world of art, I felt like doing some serious window-shopping, so I walked across the river to the youn­ger, ritzier part of the Old Town, where the buildings are only a few hundred years old. Some of the city's finest hotels and tearooms are in this part of town. The brands in the boutiques along the Bahnhofstrasse will be familiar - Prada, Valentino, and the like - but the setting is far more congenial than those of the congested major fashion cities like Milan and London. Shopping here is less hassle and more fun. Traffic is light, the streets are free of litter, and from every vantage point, you can see church spires and the foothills. Many of the specialty shops are worth a visit; you'll find beautifully crafted wooden toys and lovingly made Swiss chocolates. My favorites were the watch stores, which have extensive collections of top-quality Swiss watches (like those by Patek Philippe and Breguet) on display. I like to try on $35,000 watches even though I know I won't be buying them. Other visitors might prefer the Montblanc fountain pens or the beautiful Hermès scarves.

The main shopping street ends at the pier at Quaibrücke, at the confluence of the river and the lake. This is where the Old Town opens to incredible views of Lake Zurich and, on sunny days, the high Alps. The sensation of having the sun on your skin, the wind in your face, and the snowcapped mountains in your line of sight is something I have felt only in Zurich. To make the experience last, I boarded one of the many ferries that ply these waters on a regular basis for an inexpensive boat ride. These boats (free to people holding a ZürichCard travel card) operate year-round, linking lakeside towns to downtown Zurich, and they are nearly as enjoyable in the winter as they are during the summer months, when the narrow lake is filled with sailboats taking advantage of the reliable winds.

Aboard the ferry, the cold wind was bracing, and some found that it made for a romantic experience. One young couple sat outside in the stern of the vessel, exposed to the icy snap of winter air, and kissed for the entire 90-minute ride.

Nighttime in Zurich presents some perplexing choices. The restaurants, nightclubs, and beer halls in both parts of the Old Town are fantastic and are usually filled with tourists and locals alike. There are fancy, sit-down restaurants as well as street stalls serving delicious kebabs and grilled bratwurst. But a short streetcar ride away is Zurich West; once a decaying, nearly abandoned industrial district, it is now the center of nightlife for the younger crowd that flocks to the all-night clubs set up in the former factories.

In the early 1980s and before, when the shipbuilders and breweries moved out, this area seemed destined for oblivion. Then, in the latter part in the decade, city planners decided to turn the old buildings into warehouse-size restaurants, bars, clubs, and theaters. It was an undertaking that has paid off handsomely, revitalizing an entire part of the city and, at the same time, saving impressive old buildings from demolition. I got a kick out of the way Zurich has saved part of its heritage by giving the buildings a completely new and modern use. Most nights, I combined the old and the new, starting out with an excellent, indulgent dinner in a restaurant for grown-ups in the Old Town and then making my way slowly to Zurich West so that I could hear a set or two of live music when the scene got going, around midnight. But typically, I was in bed at my hotel by 2:30 in the morning, when the hard-core clubbers were just hitting their stride.

I prefer the pleasures that can be found earlier in the night at places like Brasserie Lipp. Everyone knows this famous old landmark in Paris, with its opulent belle-epoque look and its traditional French food and extensive wine selection. But few people know that there is one in Zurich, with the same beautiful feel to it and topped by the Jules Verne Panorama Bar, a fantastic spot providing a view of the city from a perch atop a 10-story tower. It was odd at first to sit in Zurich and experience being in Paris, but the sensation became authentic with the first sip of wine. The light, the tiles, the paintings, the mirrors - everything says Brasserie Lipp, including the occasional annoying Parisian yap of the small dogs brought in by some of the patrons. This is a place to indulge: bouillabaisse with a dry white wine, followed by a country-style cassoulet and some hearty red wine, will make any night enjoyable.

In Zurich West, American music is very popular, and many European students get their first dose of old-fashioned soul in Zurich's bars. One of my favorite clubs was Moods, where the motto is "Real funk for real people." It's set in the cavernous Schiffbau, once used for assembling ships. It was great to see a whole new generation exposed to the classic soul hits of James Brown, Aretha Franklin, and Ike and Tina Turner, performed live by Soul Survivor, a band whose lead singers are backed by powerful horns, gutbucket guitar, gyrating backup singers, and a solid drummer.

But there is much more than soul music available here. Jazz, blues, hip-hop, and European house music are all represented, and the energy usually peaks at about three or four in the morning. The all-night scene has become a magnet for young people throughout Europe, and some don't even bother to get a hotel. They arrive in the evening, hit the clubs, party all night, stumble out at dawn, have a hot breakfast in a café, and then board a train to go back home.

At the ornate central train station next to the Limmat River, it's not unusual to see tired young rockers with burgundy-tinted Mohawks stumble onto trains at eight a.m. as well-dressed bankers and insurance executives disembark for another day at the office. In fact, it's pure Zurich.


If You Go...

For listings of Zurich hotels, restaurants, and tours, and for information about the ZürichCard travel card used for the streetcars, boats, and other attractions, visit the excellent website Zuerich.com. (To read everything in English, just click the "English" button on the homepage.)

Many of the major hotel chains have outposts in Zurich, and a number of boutique hotels have opened recently. There are many smaller hotels in the Old Town, including the Sorell Hotel Rutli (011-41-44-254-5800, www.rutli.ch) and, in the newer part of the Old Town adjacent to the central train station, the elegant Hotel Schweizerhof (011-41-44-218-8888, www.hotelschweizerhof.com). Rooms in midpriced hotels will likely seem small to visitors accustomed to American hotels.


If You Want To See What I Saw...

Beyer Chronometrie
011-41-43-344-6363
www.beyer-ch.com

Bodega Española
011-41-44-251-2310

Brasserie Lipp
011-41-43-888-6666
www.brasserie-lipp.ch

H. Schwarzenbach
011-41-44-2611-315

Kunsthaus Zürich
011-41-44-253-8484
www.kunsthaus.ch

Moods in Schiffbau
011-41-44-276-8000
www.moods.ch

Coiffeur du Théatre
011-41-44-252-3801

Zoo Zürich
011-41-848-966-983
www.zoo.ch


american airlines operates daily nonstop service to zurich from dallas/fort worth and new york/jfk.




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ISSUE: Apr 1, 2007
American Way Cover - 4/1/2007