Vintage L.A.

In this day of disposable, cookie-cutter style, the elegance of Hollywood’s golden era has never held more allure. Amy Tara Koch offers the inside scoop on how to experience the storied glamour of Tinseltown.
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Sipping cocktails in dimly lit, velvet-trimmed boîtes laden with mid-century crystal chandeliers. Shopping for a Veronica Lake goddess gown (and matching lamé party jacket). Dining in a legendary eatery frequented by film-noir starlets. Welcome to Old Hollywood.


TRAVEL
Shop
DECADES
Want to stand out in a crowd? Decades is the chief source of vintage couture and red-carpet gear for celebs like Nicole Kidman, Chloe Sevigny, and J.Lo, hands down. The shop is filled with designs from Ossie Clark, Halston, Stephen Burrows, and Thea Porter. Decades also stocks glam accessories like vintage Hermès Birkin bags and Bottega Veneta weave belts. 8214 1/2 Melrose Avenue (just east of Harper), www.decadesinc.com

THE WAY WE WORE
This jewel box of a shop offers everything from ’40s swing dresses and ’50s cocktail frocks to slinky Studio 54 knits and Balenciaga pieces. Boasting a couture-stuffed designer shop and a chic ready-to-wear area, the store also excels with reasonably priced accessories and casual, non-designer clothing. Scoop up rhinestone-studded chain belts, strappy ’70s sandals, suede clutches, oversize tribal beads, and Pucci-esque duster coats. 334 South La Brea Avenue, www.thewaywewore.com

Drink
THE VERANDA AT FIGUEROA HOTEL
With the revitalization of downtown L.A., hipsters are discovering old-school gems like the Figueroa Hotel. Originally built in 1925 as a YMCA residence, the property boasts an eclectic California-mission-meets-Casablanca style. The outdoor Veranda bar, a poolside retreat surrounded by exotic foliage and garden statues, is an urban oasis. Have a few cocktails in the lobby while you admire the beamed ceilings, Moroccan lanterns, and Moorish-style tiled floors. 939 Figueroa Street, (213) 627-8971, www.figueroahotel.com

THE MINT
Opened in 1937, the Mint is a legendary bar and music venue that has attracted jazz and blues greats like Ray Charles, Stevie Ray Vaughan, Ben Harper, and Macy Gray. The vibe is quintessential supper club; wooden bar, Sinatra-era red walls studded with celebrity photos, velvet curtains, leather banquettes, and chandeliers. Though the size of the club was doubled in 1996, the space has not lost its authentic ambience. 6010 Pico Boulevard, (323) 954-9400, www.themintla.com

Eat
THE DRESDEN RESTAURANT
Featured in flicks like Swingers and That Thing You Do, this restaurant and lounge has been a Hollywood staple since 1934. The decor -- high ceilings, white spiral booths, Venetian chandeliers, and tables that wheel out so that guests can be seated comfortably -- emanates old-school elegance and charm. The reasonably priced menu features classics like escargot, shrimp scampi, roast beef, and a dazzling peach melba. After nine p.m., sip a Grasshopper in the lounge while jazz icons Marty and Elayne take center stage. 1760 North Vermont Avenue, (323) 665-4294, www.thedresden.com

MUSSO & FRANK GRILL
The clubby, wood-paneled walls and red-leather-and-mahogany booths of Hollywood’s oldest eatery transport diners back to the Golden Age. Here, Charlie Chaplin knocked back martinis. Ernest Hemingway, William Faulkner, and F. Scott Fitzgerald penned novels over filet mignon. Raymond Chandler wrote The Big Sleep in one of the grill’s dimly lit booths. On the menu? Old-school faves like corned beef and cabbage, oyster stew, and chicken potpie. 6667 Hollywood Boulevard, (323) 467-7788

DAN TANA’S
For almost 45 years, Angelenos have beelined toward this Hollywood eatery for classic Italian fare. Bob Dylan, George Clooney, and Drew Barrymore are frequently seen dining on heaping platters of spaghetti and meatballs and lasagna. The best part? Despite its star clientele, it’s as unpretentious as you can get. 9071 Santa Monica Boulevard, (310) 275-9444, www.dantanasrestaurant.com

Sleep
SUNSET TOWER HOTEL
A relic of Jazz Age swank, this Hollywood landmark has been featured in The Italian Job, Get Shorty, The Player, and Strange Days. Built in 1929, complete with brass inlay walnut paneling, French sconces, suede window banquettes, and fireplaces, this hotel has served as home to Howard Hughes, John Wayne, Marilyn Monroe, Errol Flynn, Elizabeth Taylor, and Frank Sinatra. The current lobby and Tower bar was formerly gangster Bugsy Siegel’s apartment. The hotel was recently restored by Jeff Klein in a modern manner, “not a literal interpretation of deco.” 8358 Sunset Boulevard, (323) 654-7100, www.sunsettowerhotel.com

Do
THE VISTA
As Hollywood was built on film, a great way to channel Old Hollywood is to take in a movie at this legendary single-screen movie theater. Designed by Lewis A. Smith in the 1920s, the Vista boasts Egyptian- style architecture and huge seats. Plus, tickets are offered at prices below the industry average. 4473 Sunset Drive, (323) 660-6639, www.cinematreasures.org/theater/32/


  
TOOLS
The Eco-Conscious Gardener

These days, the way you care for your lawn and garden can be almost as green as the plants themselves. Just in time for Father’s Day, here are some great tools for tending to your backyard without trampling on the environment. -- Tracy Staton

1.
Remington Cordless PowerMower
Remington’s electric mower delivers a full hour on a single charge, and its power boost can get you through any rough patches. So plug it in -- use a solar-powered outlet if you want to be really green  -- and give that tall grass the business. $450. www.remingtonpowertools.com

2.
Agri-Fab Push Lawn Sweeper
To help your hard-won lawn look its best, sweep up after yourself (and the trees and the squirrels) with this lightweight, fully adjustable push model. It’s not as fast as the gas-powered tractor version, but it beats raking -- and the only fuel it uses is yours. $100 to $149. www.agri-fab.com

3.
Lehman’s Rotary Cultivator (not shown)
Leave it to the Amish to build a non-motorized tool that works better than an engine-powered tiller. Lehman’s version breaks up and aerates soil, levels planting beds, and, when you flip it over, handles your weeding too. $150. www.lehmans.com

4.
Garden Groom Pro Hedge Trimmer
This award winner shreds and vacuums your trimmings as fast as you can produce them, saving you time with the lawn sweeper or rake afterward. Plus, the concealed blade protects you from injury -- and ensures that you don’t trim right through the power cord. $199. www.gardengroom.com

5.
Grocor Grow More Root Feeder/Irrigator
Using a sprinkler to water shrubs and trees wastes a lot of water, and it can even lead to leaf diseases for certain plants and the need for chemical treatment. So save H2O and curtail the chemicals at once by watering the roots instead of the top of the soil. Use it to apply liquid organic fertilizers and organic soil amendments too. $50 to $80. www.rootfeed.com

6.
Black & Decker Rechargeable String Trimmer
This 36-volt bad boy can power through dense weeds just as well as its gas-powered competitors can -- but it runs on a high-tech battery. Plus, it doesn’t leave behind a stinky cloud of emissions. (In fact, you could drive your car for seven hours without emitting as much pollution as you’d create in one hour of using a gas-powered trimmer.) $250. www.blackanddecker.com

7.
Sunlawn LMM40 Push Reel Mower
Not only is it peaceful on the ears, but this 19.3-pound beauty also comes with five blades, and they’re guaranteed to stay sharp for seven to 10 years. Even your old gas mower needed sharpening annually. $199. www.sunlawn.com


  
EVENTS
Crushing 101

Instead of reaching into your cellar or dropping by your neighborhood wine shop, take your vino habit on the road. These California wineries offer blending workshops or training, guaranteeing you’ll do more than just belly up to the tasting-room bar. -- Kristine Hansen


Diageo Chateau & Estate Wines (owner of Sonoma and Napa labels Sterling Vineyards, Beaulieu Vineyard, Moon Mountain Vineyard, Provenance Vineyards, and Acacia Vineyard) hosts two Crush Camps in September. You can learn the steps in the winemaking process -- from picking to stomping to blending your own varietal -- by visiting Diageo’s five wineries for intensive instruction. The package includes two nights’ lodging and four meals, as well as a truck ride up the Mayacamas Mountains for a gorgeous sunset view and time in the kitchen with chef Joey Altman. September 18–20 and September 25–27, $965 per person. (707) 967-5288


It’s Friday morning, and that means it’s time to start mixing at the blending lab at Ravenswood Winery, a celebrated producer in Sonoma with a strong following. With just 10 people in each Blending Seminar, you get to play with pipettes, graduated cylinders, and learn more about grapes such as zinfandel, petite sirah, and carignane. Ravenswood can accommodate groups of up to 35 people on Fridays at 11 a.m., by appointment only; $50 per person. (707) 933-2332, www.ravenswood-wine.com

A visit to Lodi Wine & Visitors Center will give you access to many Lodiarea zinfandels, as the center handles tastings of smaller, lesser-known zins, some of which haven’t achieved national distribution. Call ahead of time, though, and your visit could include a blending workshop. What better way to learn successful formulas for these extremely food-friendly, cult-status wines? By appointment, $25. (209) 365-0621, www.lodiwine.com

Not only can you sip wines at Napa’s Rutherford District Fleury Estate Winery, but you can blend your own custom case of wine too. Napa Valley Wine Blending 101, a two-hour seminar, provides “students” with cabernet sauvignon, merlot, and cabernet franc wines, plus the best tools for helping you get to know your palate. Winery staffers assist with the blending, hand-bottling, and blind-tasting elimination processes. By appointment, $1,500/ case minimum and $100/person. (707) 967-8333, www.fleurywinery.com

This lodging/winemaking package allows guests at the Hope-Merrill and Hope-Bosworth houses (both of which are in Geyserville) to pick grapes in September and return the following May to blend, bottle, and label the resulting wine. Harvest occurs at a variety of local wineries. There are three sessions with dates in September and May; $1,500 per couple for both sessions (includes four nights’ lodging, meals at the inns, and vintner dinners). (800) 825-4233, www.hope-inns.com

Honig Vineyard and Winery’s Harvest Education Week is open to only six people at a time, and it’s practically an orientation to working in Napa’s Rutherford District. The week includes an introductory wine seminar, an intensive look at harvesting and sustainable practices, a day in San Francisco visiting restaurant and retail accounts, an afternoon entertaining guests in the tasting room, and a dinner or retail tasting with the Honig family. Held the second week of September; $1,000/ person (includes five nights’ lodging on property). (800) 929-2217, www.honigwine.com/events

 BUY THE BOTTLE

Don’t necessarily feel like crushing your own grapes and blending your own bottle? Then just pick up one of these and tell your friends you could’ve made them, if you’d only had the time on your last wine-country vacation.


DIAGEO
2005 BV Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon, $18
2006 A by Acacia Chardonnay, $15
2006 Moon Mountain Sauvignon Blanc, $13
2006 Sterling Napa Valley Chardonnay, $17
2007 Provenance Sauvignon Blanc, $18

RAVENSWOOD

2005 Ravenswood Lodi County Zinfandel, $15
2005 Ravenswood Belloni Vineyard Designate, $30

FLEURY ESTATE WINERY

2006 F in Red Proprietary Blend, $85
2005 Lauren Bryce Cabernet Sauvignon, $85
2006 Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon, $150

HONIG VINEYARD AND WINERY

2007 Sauvignon Blanc, $16

  
NEWSWORTHY
Where the Sendak Things Are

The night Maurice Sendak lay under an animal-fur blanket at the Rosenbach Museum & Library in Philadelphia, looking at Jean-Honoré Fragonard’s drawings for a French novel, he thought, Hey, this is living, and then museum director Clive Driver said, “We’ll take your stuff too!” And so Sendak gave his art and papers to the Rosenbach so that people could have a place to go to see the things he had made.


A few years later, inside the Rosenbach, an exhibit grew and grew -- and grew until the museum was hung with more than 130 pieces of “Sendakiana,” and the walls became Sendak’s world all around. And the doors opened so that fans could sail into that world day after day and in and out of weeks and almost over a year to see where the wild things came from.

So the wild rumpus, known as “There’s a Mystery There: Sendak on Sendak,” began to show original artwork and rare sketches made between 1947 and 2006 for books like A Hole Is to Dig and The Light Princess and Outside Over There and, of course, Where the Wild Things Are. And when the wild rumpus stops, the king of all wild things in Philadelphia will wave goodbye and travel to three other American venues over the next several years.

So put on your wolf suits, head to the museum, and for a day feel like you’re king of where the wild things are. From May 6, 2008, to May 3, 2009. Rosenbach Museum & Library, 2008-2010 Delancey Place, Philadelphia; (215)732-1600; www.rosenbach.org -- T.S.

Sendak on Sendak

The Rosenbach’s “There’s a Mystery There” exhibit will feature exclusive interview footage that helps trace Sendak’s influences -- which include Moby-Dick author Herman Melville and romantic poet William Blake -- and illustrate his complex creative process. Here’s a sampling of Sendak’s thoughts on his work.

On being an illustrator:
An illustrator, in my own mind … is someone who so falls in love with the writing that he wishes he had written it, and the closest thing he can get is to illustrate it.

On the illustrator’s subversive role:
The next thing you learn is that you have to find something unique in this book, which perhaps not even the author was entirely aware of. And that’s what you hold on to, and that’s what you add to the pictures: a whole Other Story that you believe in, that you think is there.

On the enigma of creativity:
That will be the mystery that will haunt me until the day of my death: What is that thing that comes into the work that is not premeditated, that you didn’t think of, that actually belongs there but you don’t know how it got there?

On the enigma wrapped in that enigma:
It’s really about the spirit, and I find that hard to talk about because, you know, I’m a cynic. I don’t know from the spirit, and yet I do. And that is a great puzzle of my life. … Something deeper is involved, deeper in myself than I know what it is.

  
  
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